Outside The Box Beauty

Outside The Box Beauty: Makeup

When it comes makeup (as with politics, religion and all the other principles of life), I’m a huge believer in thinking outside the box. Nothing propels us all forward faster or inspires us more than the work of great minds who dare to go against the grain, right? In terms of makeup, where would we be today if it weren’t for the industry-changing innovations like Max Factor’s Pan-Cake Makeup, Coco Chanel’s trend-setting suntanned skin, Estée Lauder’s ingenious Gift-With-Purchase or, more recently, Benefit’s smart-sweet Benetint or Chanel’s initially-shocking, now mainstream Vamp nail polish?

The list grows by the day, but here are some of my current cutting-edge obsessions. No matter how loyal you are to your current beauty routine, thinking outside of the box every once in awhile practically guarantees you’ll find some new favorites.

For serious sun protection and full-coverage, VMV Skinsavvy SPF 60 Foundation ($50; www.blissworld.com), is the first-of-its-kind foundation that offers broad spectrum SPF 60 (yes, sixty!) protection, fairly opaque coverage yet is, happily, lightweight, un-masky and suitable for all skin types.

Bronzers aren’t exactly known for their lofty goals, but FusionBeauty GlowFusion™ Micro-Tech™ Intuitive Active Bronzer ($39; www.sephora.com) is the glow-maker that aspires to be skin care. This silky bronzing powder use naturally-derived ingredients that act as powerful muscle inhibitors, Vitamin C to diminish dark spots and enhance skin tone, Vitamin E to fight free radicals and prevent premature aging and even manages to give a soft-focus, lit-from-within subtle tan look.

Another contender in the smart makeup category are the Smashbox “O” products, the better-than-a-mood-ring potions that works with your skin’s chemistry to transform from colorless into your own custom, ideal shade. Besides being smart and pretty, they’re healthy, too – each is packed with an exclusive Goji Berry-C Complex for super antioxidant benefits. The collection includes Smashbox O-Bronze Intuitive Cheek Bronzer ($26), O-Glow Blush ($26) and O-PLUMP Intuitive Lip Plumper ($24); all at www.sephora.com.

I’m endlessly fascinated by the degree of imagination displayed by Tarte, and the brand’s newest mascaras don’t disappoint: Tarte Bottoms Up™ - Lower Lash Mascara ($16) is specifically designed to precisely coat each and every bottom lash with a flake-free, water-resistant formula. The tiny, tapered brush allows you to get the tiniest of lashes without making a mess. And, targeting those too lethargic for everyday mascara duty is Tarte 4 Day Stay Lash Stain ($18) that coats lashes in a soft and flexible long-lasting, non-flaking pigment that lasts for four days without reapplying; at www.tartecosmetics.com.

In the “Geez, why didn’t anyone think of this sooner?” category is the felt-tip pen-inspired Anastasia Brow Pen ($21; www.sephora.com) that follows in the footsteps of eyeliner pens and their quick-drying formulas and idiot-proof, fine applicators. Can be used as a base under brow powder to increase its staying power or, as I use it, to simply fill in sparse areas for a fuller look.

Who can be bothered to down handfuls of vitamin pills when you can just lick your lips when wearing Borba Nutraceutical Lip Tint ($16; www.blissworld.com) for a daily dose of essential vitamins, minerals and nutrients with each application.

Though the idea of customizable makeup palettes isn’t new – after all, Trish McEvoy has cornered the market on personalized makeup pages for years now – but it’s great to see that other top cosmetic lines are finally thinking beyond pre-packed palettes and realizing that we all really love the power to choose. Stila offers a refillable, magnetic palette meant to be filled with four cheek and/or eye colors, and Bobbi Brown now offers refillable palettes to fill with your choice of individually-purchased beautifiers, from blush and eye shadow to lipstick and gloss. Even the best-selling Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick is now sold in a compact version to make your whole face-in-a-case complete. Visit www.stilacosmetics.com and www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com for more information or to purchase products.

 

ABCs of Skin Care: GOLD

Skincare Secret Ingredients --What Works, What’s A Waste

Volume Three:  Gold

Just when you thought that luxury skin care products couldn’t get any more indulgent, exotic or downright logic-defying, enter the trend of treatments containing pure gold.

Yes, it sounds like a ridiculous badge of conspicuous consumption, but many skin care professionals say that it’s actually a legitimately effective skin treatment and not just a gimmick.

Facials using “liquid” gold or gold leaf masks have been popular at exclusive spas for several years. But, at upwards of $200 for an hour-long treatment, they have reportedly felt the effects of our economic downturn causing many spas to temporarily take services using gold (and diamond dust as well) off of their menus. While the ultra-pricey in-spa treatments are taking a hiatus at many locations, surprisingly, the number of consumer skin products using gold are increasing each month and the trend isn’t going away anytime soon.

The History: It’s said that Cleopatra slept in a pure gold mask each night, ancient Chinese medicine sees gold as an elixir of youth, and the Indian healing art of Ayurveda believes that it has the ability to increase blood circulation, firm and detoxify skin and decrease wrinkles. Gold’s potent anti-inflammatory properties made it an effective treatment for rheumatoid arthritis nearly a century ago.

How It’s Used: Gold itself can’t be absorbed into the skin, it must be delivered to layers of the skin through a delivery system, such as the colloidal suspension system used by some brands.

What It Does: According to Cherie Dobbs of Prana SpaCeuticals, gold works like a magnet to pull out the toxins and free radicals from your skin, so that it’s natural systems can work at peak performance.

Utilizing the principle that inflammation can cause premature aging, gold’s anti-inflammatory powers would, in theory, make it a good remedy for fading sun damage and spots, and to firm and tighten skin. Gold reportedly speeds up cell renewal, prevents sagging skin by slowing down the breakdown of elastin and collagen depletion, and fights off damaging free radicals.

Find It In: Skin serums are more readily absorbed than creams and reportedly increase the effectiveness of the products that are applied over it. Gold- infused Prana SpaCeuticals AU 24K Facial Skin Rejuvenation Serum ($96, www.pranaspaceuticals.com), claims to stimulate cellular growth to promote healthy looking skin, leaves skin smoother and glowing and stimulates blood flow, while Sjal Serum 1 ($245; www.sjalskincare.com) includes gold in its super-powered and super-earth-friendly ingredient list, and claims to increase oxygen, hydration and elasticity, lift the skin and decrease wrinkles.

Skin creams that deliver nanoparticles of pure 24 karat gold, like Chantecaille Nano Gold Energizing Cream ($420) which claims to regenerate skin at the cellular level to heal, revitalize, promote collagen production and consistently replenish skin’s energy, and Chantecaille Nano Gold Energizing Eye Cream ($260), which touts the same claims in addition to diffusing light to dim under eye circles, de-puff and lift, and increase elasticity and firmness to the eye area. Both at www.barneys.com.

Makeup primers containing pure 24 karat gold, such as La Prairie Cellular Treatment Gold Illusion ($150) and Guerlain L’Or Radiance Concentrate Makeup Base ($70), may be used on bare skin either alone or pre-foundation as a canvas to blur or “fill in” lines and wrinkles, provide a gentle tightening effect, and leave a subtly shimmering glow to your skin. Both at www.neimanmarcus.com.

The Verdict: I’m mixed on the metal. After trying out the above products, each one gave me a temporary glow, but not unlike other turbo-powered skin cocktails that cost less.  I didn’t notice a tangible improvement in my skin with the face or eye creams; The makeup primers, as all primers do, left my skin velvety-smooth and made my foundation look flawless and last longer, but the illumination was of course just a temporary effect, not a true skin fix. However, both of the serums are – pardon the pun – worth their weight in gold for my skin. The silky texture felt lightweight but gave great hydration, my skin was tighter and luminous after just a few weeks of use, and left me with zero breakouts. Financial advice: a serum is the best investment piece if you’re curious about the skin-perfecting powers of gold.

 

Brightening Skin Care

Lighten Up!

Brightening Skin Care

 

I’ve seen my baby and childhood photographs, so I know for sure that I was not born with splotchy, spotted, uneven skin. In fact, I’ve never seen a baby with it, yet the majority of adults I pass on the street are plagued by it. What’s happening to our skin somewhere along the way?

Hyperpigmentation, the fancy word for those dark spots or blotches, is what’s happening, and the fact that it’s an epidemic explains the explosion of “brightening” skin care products. Brightening is a big buzzword on everything from cleansers and toners to day and night creams and even powders. But, do these luminosity-promising products really pack enough of a punch to do us any good?

First of all, understand that your spots– whether brown or red – signal that the skin has been damaged in some way. The cause of the spots, whether from the sun, hormones or acne, usually points to the best way to fade them and to prevent further damage.

Red spots are usually caused by inflammation from acne, which leaves a scar. Though they usually last well over a year, they will eventually fade as the skin naturally sheds and renews. Deeper scars, or indentations, from acne really only respond to aggressive treatment like lasers or collagen fillers. How to avoid them in the first place? Do as every aesthetician has always told you: never pick a blemish and leave the extractions to the pros.

Other types of spots are related to melanin rather than inflammation, develop from sun exposure or hormones, and need intervention rather than fading on their own. Melanin is the pigmentation within our skin that gives it color; when melanin-containing melanocytes inside the skin cells are exposed to UV light, they produce larger amounts of melanin, causing the skin to darken.

Brown spots, including freckles and sun spots, are those dark dots on the face, arms, hands, neck and chest that develop when normal cellular functions are changed by sun exposure. As pigment from years of sun exposure builds up, it darkens and forms a flat or raised spot. These spots usually stay on the surface of the skin, however, they can go deeper. If you’ve got a spot that’s medium brown or darker, and looks thick or raised, it’s best to have it investigated by a dermatologist. If it’s actinic keratoses, then it needs to be removed or treated to prevent the potential development of squamous cell cancer.

Meslasma is usually related to hormones, often caused by pregnancy, birth control pills, menopause and anything else that affects your hormone levels. It causes brown or dark large, mask-like patches on the forehead, nose and cheeks and can be limited to the surface of the skin or lie deep within the dermis. It can be more challenging to treat than sun spots unless or until the hormones are back in balance.

What to Try:

Though using every brightening product you can get your hands on probably won’t hurt, I’m not convinced of the value of those that are washed down the drain, like cleansers and scrubs. Put your money into products that sit on your skin for an extended time, either with or without hydroquinone, which is considered the lightening leader but isn’t for everyone.

Hydroquinone Lightening:

Hydroquinone decreases the melanin (pigment) production of melanocytes. The good news is that hydroquinone is considered to be quite effective if your case is on the mild side; the bad news is that it takes some patience to see results, sometimes six weeks to several months. You can try an over-the-counter bleaching cream with 2% hydroquinone, such as Glytone Fading Lotion ($36; www.glytone.com), which also contains kojic acid and glycolic acid and can be used morning and night for round-the-clock anti-pigment power. For tougher cases, your dermatologist may prescribe a 4% hydroquinone cream to treat spots from acne, mild melasma and sun spots.

Non-Hydroquinone Lightening:

Gentle, over-the-counter ingredients take some time to show results (think months here, not weeks) but popular ones like licorice extract and kojic acid help block melanin production and are great used in conjunction with an effective exfoliant such as glycolic acid to slough off the old skin. A serum or cream that either contains SPF or can be followed by it should be used daily. Two of my favorites are SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF ($150; www.skinceuticals.com), which corrects existing photodamage and inhibits UV-induced pigmentation with a breakthrough formula containing phloretin, a pigment-regulating antioxidant, and Kiehl’s Brightening Botanical Spot Treatment ($50; www.kiehls.com), which uses ellagic acid to lighten freckles and sunspots but can be used all over the face for a bright, even-toned complexion.

Definitely invest in a brightening night treatment. Without worrying about having to battle the sun’s counter-effects, these products can work their hardest while you sleep. A pricey but effective night balm, Beauty by Ivo Pitanguy PREVIOUS Lightening Serum ($200; wwwneimanmarcus.com), fights existing spots and prevent new ones with the brand’s unique centella asiatica plant extract, a super-firming tripeptide, vitamin E and extracts of blackberry and licorice. Another effective and more budget-friendly choice is Dermalogica ChromaWhite TRx Pure Night ($75; www.dermalogica.com), which brightens while you sleep with white tea extract and other melanin-fighting ingredients to prevent new spots as well as minimize those you already have.

If your wallet allows, more aggressive facial treatments like chemical peels and microdermabrasion are on the menu at many spas and can give you noticeable results much faster. Both exfoliate the top layer of skin, removing surface discolorations including spots. You’ll likely see an improvement in your skin after just one peel or microderm treatment, but more dramatic results will take at least two to six.

Remember, you could have spectacular results with any of the above treatments and still render them useless if you don’t use a broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen every single day of the year, without fail. With a bit of sunlight, those vanishing spots will reappear right before your eyes.

 

 

Lowdown on Liner

The Thin Line Between Love & Hate

I’m no Picasso, but I know my way around a box of pastels and fancy myself an at-least-average artist. I should be able to line my eyes in one smooth, wiggle-free stroke. Yet, give me a miniscule tapered brush and a pot o’ black pigment and my attempts to Sophia Lorenicize my lids result in a smeary, globby mess much less Sophia and more Mrs. Robinson from The Graduate, three vodka gimlets in. I’d given up on the sleekness of liquids or creams and settled for boring but user-friendly pencils, until the debut of the cream-gel hybrid liner a few years back. Now, you can find a version of this eyeliner in every price point and though many are very good, I will remain forever loyal to Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner. The award-winning formula (could Elle, InStyle, and Allure all be wrong?) has the best creamy, long-lasting texture, and the color choices are stunning.  Black Ink is a classic no-brainer, but creative shades like Black Plum Ink and Chocolate Shimmer Ink are swoon-worthy, and a relatively inexpensive way to update your look each season at $21 a pop. The caveat: the Ultra-Fine Eyeliner Brush is an absolute must and will set you back another $25, but is the key to precision.

Still, it takes more than a luxe product to master the artfully lined eye. Like all artistry, it’s all in the technique:  Lift your lid up slightly with your non-dominant hand to get the liner as close to the eye as possible by smoothing out any slack skin and hold the brush close to the bristles. Start at the middle of the lash line and draw to the outer corner of the eye, making the liner slightly thicker as you get to the corner, if you’re feeling lucky. Now, start again at the center and apply the liner in short, smooth strokes all the way to the inner corner as thinly as possible. Amateur alert: if you’ve got a space between the liner and your lashes, fill it in with a matching powder shadow and an angled brush. You’ll get closer to a perfectly-placed line with practice.

Yes, applying cream liner takes longer than your typical swipe-it-on pencil, but it’s so worth it.  On those chaotic mornings where I’m speeding my daughter to school in coffee-stained pajamas and a dirty ponytail, that sliver of crisp black defining my bleary eyes is a real ego-boost.

Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink, $21, and Ultra-Fine Eyeliner Brush, $25; bobbibrowncosmetics.com.

 

 

Demystifying Minerals

Okay, Now I Get It.

Demystifying Mineral Makeup 

Call it close-mindedness, or just plain old snobbery, but I must be the last of the beauty junkies to fly a mineral makeup flag. A couple of years ago, when every beauty expert was swirling and buffing their face into mineral oblivion, I was still holding out, waiting for the infomercially-charged frenzy to inevitably fizzle. After all, minerals sounded like just another makeup marketing trick, the kind of hype that the ubiquitous lip plumper was in the nineties. Sure, what they don’t have sounded great: “No preservatives!” “No talc!” But, I figured as long as I wasn’t eating my makeup, I cared a lot more about what it did have in it, (“Luminizers!” “Wrinkle-Fighters!”) and, more importantly, how it made my skin look, which never seemed to be the selling point. When practically every beauty brand added mineral products to their line, it made me only more convinced of its “me too” fad-status rather than curious about its benefits.

Cut to just a few months ago, when, after a thoroughly de-gunking facial, the aesthetician insisted on dusting my freshly-purified face with the spa’s favored mineral loose powder foundation, to provide sun protection and soothe redness. Before I could protest, she had fluffed on a coat of the powder and thrust a hand mirror in front of me, and I bit my tongue when I saw my naturally glowing, poreless skin. The makeup was positively traceless, yet, as promised, cancelled out the post-facial redness and blurred my acne scars. It felt clean and weightless -- nothing at all like the sacrilege of putting makeup on immediately after a facial. I added that little jar right onto my spa bill.

Imagine my disappointment when my next experience was anything but the undetectable airbrush effect that I had left the spa with. Instead, my face was a muddy, blotchy mess. I threw the offensive minerals into one of my makeup Black Hole drawers, where it sat until I watched a makeup artist use a similar product on a friend, rendering her average skin virtually flawless in minutes, and with only one brush. That’s when I got it – with minerals, it’s all about the application, and like any art form, it takes some practice to master.

Since then, I’ve experimented with different brands, and the application is the same – it’s never a swip-and-go like you can do with other makeup, but it’s worth the effort. Learn from my mistakes, practice the following method and remember that mineral foundation, like all others, should just look like great skin, not like makeup. As Beauty Expert Bobbi Brown reminds us, “The right foundation will make you look like you’re not wearing any foundation at all. You’ll just have even-toned, great-looking skin.”

The Right Application for A Flawless Finish

• Apply eye cream and moisturizer and let them soak in completely for a few minutes. This is the most important step and the reason why my first attempt was sticky and blotchy. If excess shine or residue remains on your face, blot with tissue.
• Chant “Less is more” as you shake a small amount of mineral powder onto your palm, and swirl a short-handled Kabuki brush with short, fluffy bristles into it.
• Tap the bristles onto the back of your hand, to get rid of excess as you  “push” the powder into them, which is how you get an even, glob-free application.
• It’s counter-intuitive, but start at the perimeter of your face and work towards the center, buffing the powder onto your skin in small, tight circles, making sure to avoid the under eye area completely.
• Next move on to the T-zone, buffing the forehead, nose and chin in small circles.
• Your canvas is complete; check for any areas where the powder is visible, and buff over it until it disappears. This is the key to the airbrush effect.
• For concealer-strength coverage on blemishes or scars, use a small, flat brush to pat a tiny layer of powder directly onto the darker area only – not on the surrounding skin.
• Because mineral powder is too heavy for the eye area, pat your usual eye concealer onto any dark circles and set it with a regular loose powder. (Try Laura Mercier’s Secret Brightening Powder, $22, lauramercier.com.)
• Finish your makeup routine with only powder formulas of blush, bronzer and highlighter, as creams/liquids and powders don’t mix! 

Expert Tips

Keep in mind that mineral foundation works best on normal-to-oily skin, and if your skin is in particularly bad condition, plagued with flakiness, blemishes or other pitfalls, you may not love the results of mineral powder and would benefit most from the medium-to-heavy coverage of liquid and cream formulas.

Color matching is vital; choosing a shade that’s even a smidge light will inevitably turn chalky in a mineral formula. If your skin tone falls between a lighter and a darker shade, go with the darker one. Brown warns that very oily skins “can change color of powders, and they may appear dry and pasty,” so, if possible, it’s wise to test-drive a sample of the shade and check it throughout the day before purchasing it.

Though one mineral brand boasts that their formula is so good for your skin you can “sleep in it,” please don’t! An oil-based makeup remover or cleansing balm is the method of choice for completely dissolving mineral powder out of your pores.

Product Picks

Estée Lauder Nutririous Vita-Mineral Loose Powder Makeup SPF 15, $33.50; esteelauder.com. One of the last brands to the minerals party and worth the wait – steers clear of the dry look with a radiant, glowy finish.

Jane Iredale's line has enough all-natural, good for you, artificial filler-free products to fill an aisle at Whole Foods; scan the brand at beauty.com or janeiredale.com for the best foundation fit for your skin.

Physician’s Formula Mineral Wear Loose Talc-Free Powder SPF 16, $10.95; drugstores nationwide. With its own Kabuki brush, SPF coverage, and a good shade range, it’s a beauty bargain.

 

 

 

 

Frugalista Beauty Finds

Frugalista Beauty:

Best Drugstore Buys for $20 & Under

Beauty snobs of the world unite: We refuse to go without our vitamin-infused mascara that comes in the chic gold tube…or our favorite $60 concealer that fakes flawlessness…or that miraculous deep conditioner that costs more than our dinner but gives us magazine cover hair. Trust me, I’m one of you. To be sure, many of us are finicky, brand-loyal and downright elitist when it comes to our beauty arsenal, and with good reason. Most of us have tried product after product before finding the one that transforms us into our most magnificent version of ourselves, and aren’t too willing to give up any of our magic potions.  Far be it from me to pressure you to give up any semblance of everyday luxury, but, in the wake of our current economic downturn, I can’t help but wonder, Wouldn’t it be great to find a few substitutes of equal fabulousness that cost so much less that it’s nearly ridiculous? 

If it’s been awhile since you’ve prowled the beauty section of your local drugstore, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by many more brands and product choices, colors that rival the upscale lines, and skin care formulas that are not only affordable and effective, but are actually preferred by some of the top dermatologists over the luxury stuff. Among the best, most consistently performance-driven brands are Olay, L’Oreal and Neutrogena, but there are standout products in just about every other line as well.

Here are some of my favorite drugstore finds, each one stiff competition for it’s higher priced counterparts. Each will set you back $20 or less, and, if that’s not incentive enough to do some down-market exploring, keep in mind that many (though not all) of the larger, national chains do accept returns on beauty items. What have you got to lose, besides a few of those zeros on your Visa bill?

All Products Available At Drugstores Nationwide Unless Noted

Makeup
Face:

Clean & Clear Oil Absorbing Sheets, $5.29

CoverGirl & Olay Simply Ageless Foundation, $13.99

L’Oreal True Match Line: Powder, Liquid Makeup and Powder Blush, $10.95 each

Maybelline Dream Liquid Mousse Foundation, $9.49

Rimmel Natural Bronzer, $5.49

Sonia Kashuk Only At Target: Concealer Stick and Beautifying Blush, $7.99 each

Eyes:

CoverGirl Lash Exact Mascara, $7.49

L’Oreal Voluminous Original Volume Mascara, $7.50

L’Oreal FeatherLash Water-Resistant Mascara, $7.95

Maybelline Lash Discovery Waterproof, $6.99

Neutrogena Skin Soothing Eye Tints, $9.49

Revlon ColorStay 12 Hour Shadow Quad, $6.99

Rimmel Colour Rush Shadow Trio, $5.49

L’Oreal HIP Eye Liner Pencil, $7.99

Lips:

L’Oreal Colour Juice Lip Gloss, $7.95

L’Oreal HIP Brilliant Shine Lip Gloss, $9.50

Neutrogena MoistureShine Lipstick, $9.49

Revlon ColorStay Sheer Overtime LipColor, $10.99

Wet & Wild Lip Liner Pencil, $1.49

 

Skin Care

Almay Hypo-Allergenic Eye Makeup Remover Pads, Non-Oily, $4.99

Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, $11.49

Eucerin Redness Relief Soothing Cleanser, $8.99

L’Oreal Skin Genesis Deep Purifying Foaming Cream Cleanser, $7.99

Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Blemish Anti-Wrinkle Cleanser, $7.49

Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream, Night Formula, $13.99

Neutrogena Healthy Skin Eye Cream, $12.99

Olay Regenerist Eye Lifting Serum, $18.99

Olay Smooth Skin Exfoliating Scrub with Gentle Microbeads, $8.50

RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Serum, $19.99

 

Hair

Burt’s Bees More Moisture Raspberry & Brazil Nut Shampoo & Conditioner, $7.79 each

Clairol Nice’N Easy Colorseal Weekly Conditioning Gloss, $3.99

Dove Flexible Hold Hairspray, $4.29

Finesse Touchable Curls Defining Mousse, $3.19

Garnier Fructis Weightless Leave-In Anti-Frizz Serum Sleek & Shine, $5.99

John Frieda Collection Luminous Color Glaze, $9.99

John Frieda Sheer Blonde Crystal Clear Shape & Shimmer Hairspray, $5.99

L’Oreal Vive Pro Smooth Intense Shampoo and Conditioner, $4.99 each

L’Oreal Vive Pro Smooth Gloss Anti-Frizz Cream, $4.99

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo, $5.99

Redken All Soft Shampoo and Conditioner, $13.00 each; www.drugstore.com

Pantene Pro-V Restoratives Time Renewal Shampoo, $6

Pantene Pro-V Restoratives Frizz Control Conditioner, $6

 

Bath & Body

Aquaphor Healing Treatment, $14.99

Boots No. 7 Fabulously Firming Body Cream, $12.99; Target

Burt’s Bees Thoroughly Therapeutic Hand Crème, Honey & Grapeseed Oil, $9.99

Giovanni Cool Mint Lemon Salt Scrub with Crushed Mint Leaves, $13.99; www.drugstore.com

Nivea Crème, $7.49

Neutrogena Body Oil, $10.49

Jergens Natural Glow Daily Moisturizer, $7.99

Travel In Style

Glam On The Go

I’m a sucker for the old “good things come in small packages” saying. Sure, it’s probably just a myth that mothers made up to console their short and shrimpy kids, but I buy into it wholeheartedly. Especially when it comes to beauty products. In fact, my irrational love of hotels probably stemmed from their pristine vanities stocked with scaled-down sizes of Molton Brown and Kiehl’s products. Given the choice between an industrial-sized bottle of my favorite body lotion, or a Lilliputian version of it that can be nestled into my handbag, I’ll go for the mini every time. Fortunately, the fact that they are essential for travel helps justify my obsession.

Imagine my giddiness over these petite, FSA-approved primpers – each has won a coveted space in my travel bag, which is perpetually packed and ready for take off. Now, I just need somewhere to go. 

 

Lisa Hoffman Beauty Spa Facial Packette, $35; www.lisahoffmanbeauty.com.

A meticulously packaged, effective and luxurious spa-quality facial kit for home or on the go, consisting of ten products in numerical order to take out the guesswork. The formulas firm, brighten and moisturize, making a fabulous antidote for jet-lagged skin or a pre-event radiance boost without redness or irritation. Makes an excellent beauty gift for a bride to use the morning of her wedding.

Philip B. Botanicals Travel Sizes, varying prices; www.philipb.com. When I found that many of my beloved, über-luxe Philip B’s now come in airline-approved 2 ounce sizes, recession-be-damned, I needed them all. The whole brand is paraben-free, sumptuously healing for hair and body, and worthy of its countless beauty editor accolades. Though the full sizes are definitely splurge-worthy, these minis are a smart way to try before you buy big. Among the 2 ounce offerings are the Peppermint & Avocado Shampoo ($8), the White Truffle Nourishing & Conditioning Crème ($28), the Drop Dead Hair Straightening Baume ($8), the Jet Set Precision Control Hair Spray ($18), the Thai Tea Mind & Body Wash ($8), and the Lovin’ Hand & Body Crème ($8).

Fresh To Go Sizes, varying prices; www.sephora.com. Nothing beats nasty recycled plane-air faster than the squeaky-clean Fresh Sugar scents! Now, the purveyor of deliciously unique scents and soothing skin, hair, bath and body beautifiers offers several of it’s best-selling treats in plane-permitted sizes, such as Fresh Sugar Lemon EDP To Go (1 ounce, $24.50), Soy Face Cleanser To Go (1.7 ounces, $15) and Sugar Blossom Hand Cream To Go (1 ounce, $15). 

Skincare Secret Ingredients: Argan Oil

Skincare Secret Ingredients --What Works, What’s A Waste

Volume Two:  Argan Oil

The next lineup in our ABC’s of skincare is perhaps the most cult-y of all cult beauty ingredients in recent years, the exotic and eco-luxe Moroccan “Liquid Gold,” Argan Oil.

What It Is: Argan oil is produced from the kernels of the argan tree, a type of tree that flourishes in the difficult and extreme environmental conditions of Morocco. The oil is purported to be rich in cosmetic and healing properties. It has reached cult status over the past few years as one of the top age-defying, miracle ingredients for skin.

Why You’ve Heard Of It: It’s attracting buzz because it’s cropping up everywhere as a youth-boosting ingredient in products from hair treatments to body lotions to lipsticks. Besides its alleged age-defying skincare powers, argan oil is also newsworthy of late because of its power-packed vitamin E and essential fatty acid content’s nutritional benefits (but culinary arts are not my department) and the abundance of women-only argan oil collective co-ops of Moroccan Berber women. Seen as a self-sustaining means of providing fair wages and good working conditions to a population that would not have it otherwise, argan oil production through these co-ops has politico-socioeconomic ramifications as well (uh, also not my department).  Though it’s history is also attention-grabbing, in the interest of space and plain old-fashioned good manners, I’m going to skip over the oil’s mysterious legend of originally being extracted from undigested argan pits eaten by Moroccan goats. (You’re welcome). The argan oil used in present day products is harvested and processed in a much more um… sanitary way.

What It Does:  Argan oil is one of those elixirs that is said to work magic on a host of stubborn skin ailments, including chronic dry skin, wrinkles, acne, psoriasis and eczema, sunburn and even stretch marks. It’s also touted as a wonder potion for dry, damaged hair and scalp, with claims to mend and prevent split ends, nourish and strengthen hair and give great gloss. Moroccan women have historically slathered it onto their hair, faces, body and nails as a multi-purpose moisturizer and beautifier. What’s indisputable is its high antioxidant properties, which is always an anti-aging plus.

Why It’s Staying Hot: Magical Properties + Mysterious Back-Story + Inflated Price = Cult Status Beauty Product. Always. Duh.

Why Some Love It:  Argan oil is surprisingly lightweight, absorbs quickly and doesn’t feel sticky on your skin. Some also love it because it’s a great organic, eco-friendly and chic beauty product, which is a rare triple threat.

…And Why Some Don’t: To be blunt, the stuff smells like rancid nuts to me, which makes the whole application experience seem a whole lot more crunchy-hippie-earth-mother to me than I’d like.

Why It’s Pricey:  As more and more Western beauty companies distribute argan oil and even more incorporate it into their established brand line-ups, the further the oil gets from its authentic, and not so expensive, artisan roots. It’s gone from being a Moroccan tourist souvenir to a staple of the spa-and-Sephora set.

Find It In:

Many cosmetics by Cle de Peau Beauté feature argan tree oil, including the Intensifying Cream Eyeliner ($60), Eye Color Quad ($75), Brilliant Enhancer ($62) and Extra Silky Lipstick ($50); www.neimanmarcus.com.

Dr. Hauschka Lipcolor contains argan oil, as well as many other nourishing oils, for a moist, cushiony feel, $23.95; www.beautyhabit.com.

The Josie Maran Line, which includes a 1.7 ounce bottle of 100% Pure Argan Oil ($48), as well as a full-spectrum of cosmetics that include it as an ingredient. At www.sephora.com.

Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Argan Body Line, which includes a body lotion, skin salve and dry body oil, each of which is blended with fairly-traded argan oil. At www.kiehls.com.

Moroccanoil hair products, from the hair treatment oil to styling creams and masks, contain argan oil in their blend of hair healing ingredients. At www.moroccanoil.com.

Pangea Organics Facial Cleansers and Moisturizers, which include the oil in its über-natural mix of effective and fantastic-smelling formulas. At www.beautyhabit.com.

The Verdict:

Invest in a small bottle of the least expensive, but purest argan oil you can find, and try it out on your face/body/hair/nails to see how it works for you before you invest in a whole slew of argan-infused products. Though a nightly dose of the oil left my face smooth and surprisingly non-oily come sunrise, I’m not convinced of its ability to lessen the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and the odd nut-like scent was a bit overpowering. However, my dry hair is quickly soothed and shined with just a tiny amount of the oil applied after my shampoo and conditioner, and it’s fantastic on dry cuticles.

 

 

Be A Bride...Or Just Look Like One!

Blushing Bride

According to numerous makeup artists, when a bride does her own wedding-day makeup, she will most likely glam-up her every day look for eyes, foundation/powder and lips, either by using more dramatic colors or a different finish, like switching from matte to shimmery formulas. She will even buy special products just for the Big Day, like a new lipstick and waterproof mascara. But, when it comes to cheeks, she is likely to stay loyal to her old standby blush or bronzer, and believe that simply layering it on heavier than usual will fancy it up enough. Not so, say the experts.

If you are lucky enough to have access to a professional makeup artist for your wedding day, and your budget allows it, then by all means collaborate with him or her on finding your best makeup look, and be open to any suggestions regarding the best formulas and shades. After all, their expertise is what you’re paying for, and knowing what works best in photographs and in different types of light is invaluable information. So, if you’ve got your heart set on wearing that new fuchsia blush with the mult-colored glitter flecks and your makeup artist ditches it in favor of a subtly shimmery shade she swears will make you look ephemeral instead of easy, she probably knows best. Many makeup artists include a trial run when they give you their rate quote, and this is the best way to make sure that you’re not in for any surprises just before you walk down the aisle.

For brides that do not have the option of hiring a makeup pro, DIY makeup is far from a tragedy and does not have to be as intimidating as it seems. Practice is everything, and taking the time to scour the best artist-authored makeup books can give you a crash course in great techniques and product picks for your coloring, face shape and the type of occasion. Most books include a section on makeup for weddings or special occasions, or at least different advice for day looks versus night.  Two of my favorites are The Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual, by Bobbi Brown, and Makeup Your Mind by Francois Nars, but there are plenty of other easy-to-understand, beautifully photographed makeup how-to books as well.

The best blush shades make you look magically lit-from-within, giving you a subtle glow – think incandescent, not iridescent. You may need to scrap the shade you usually wear, particularly if it’s totally neutral (which may read as flat in photos), too pale (disappearing act) or sparkly or frosty (shiny and downright weird in certain lighting) in favor of a silky matte or soft shimmer formula in a bloom-hued shade, from petal pinks to peaches to bright pink and rose. Here are some of my favorite bridal-worthy blushes:

Bobbi Brown Blush is a classic, silky-matte blush that is virtually idiot-proof. Best used as the Divine Miss Brown does it herself: start with a neutral shade of blush that looks like your own natural flush and sweep it from the apples of your cheeks up to your hairline. Follow with a pop of color in a brighter shade swirled only on the apples of your cheeks. I love the combination of the neutral Tawny shade topped off with Apricot, a melon-y pink that looks all scary clown in the compact but transforms into the soft, sunny flush once on; $22; www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com.

Kevyn Aucoin The Pure Powder Glow Blush has held a place in my makeup arsenal for several years now. The shades look rather bright in the compact but go on very sheer and give the most beautiful, ethereal glow. If you’re after the truly sweet, “blushing bride” look, layer light apricot Dolline and pure pink Shadore – either one over the other or swirled together with a large, fluffy blush brush; $37; www.neimanmarcus.com.

L’Oreal True Match Blush is a diva in drugstore clothing, in my opinion. It’s as silky and sheer as blushes triple its price, has a lovely shade range without a loser in the bunch, and even groups shades by skin tones for newbies. Apricot Kiss is my go-to pale peach when I need to fake a full night’s sleep but don’t want to appear made up, and it’s a fantastic bridal look for very fair-skinned brides who prefer peach over pink. Layer over a light matte bronzing powder for a modern sunny glow; $10.95 at drugstores.

LORAC Baked Matte Satin Blush, contrary to its name, looks mighty shimmery in the pan, but don’t be fooled – the color, though highly pigmented, does go on amazingly smooth and looks like a real matte yet glowy blush on your cheeks. My shade pick is Exposed, a radiant peachy-pink; $24, www.sephora.com.

Smashbox Blush Rush is a sheer yet long-wearing formula that feels like silk plus boasts an ultra-ingenius mirrored swivel compact. If you love berry-toned tints, the shimmery Crush shade is a must-try; $24, www.sephora.com.

Finally, like everything else wedding-related, the devil is in the details when it comes to blush. Choosing a spectacular shade is only the first step; Invest in the best quality, large blush brush you can afford, start with a little bit of color and only add more when you’re sure you need it to balance your look. Once you are fully dressed from tiara to toe, take a step back from the mirror and make sure that your cheek color hints rather than harasses. If it’s clearly too much color, soften it a bit with a bare fluffy loose powder brush and if that doesn’t work, buff it with a tiny amount of sheer loose powder until the color seems to melt into your skin rather than sitting on top of it. Now…smile! You’re getting married!

Bikini Bod In A Bottle

Beach Body, No Cardio Required?

Further evidence that women are expecting more and more out of their beauty products: two major beauty companies, Rodial and Tarte, just launched bikini-readying products that blur the line between fat/cellulite-busting supplement, sun tan in a bottle and veritable magic potion. Sounds great, right – you can slack on your diet and exercise regimen and still be tanned, toned and trim? Not so fast –all you personal trainers and tanning salon owners out there can step away from the ledge, as you are not in danger of being replaced. It’s safe to say that a sleek physique is still going to take some hours logged at the gym, but wouldn’t it be great to use a beauty routine that can speed up your results a bit?

Though I’m a fan of both of these innovative brands, it’s tough to not be skeptical of the hyperbolic, borderline-fantastical claims of Rodial Skinny Beach Supplement ($59, www.beauty.com) and the Tarte Cellufight Natural Anti-Cellulite Self-Tanner ($40, www.tartecosmetics.com). Let’s look at the lofty goals of each product:

Rodial Skinny Beach Supplement is best used during the two weeks before summer or an upcoming vacation, so encourage slimming while preparing your skin for sun exposure. The Claim: Beta-carotene stimulates pigments to promote skin darkening without excess sun exposure, which would, in theory, give you a layer of insurance (in the form of a pigment-boosted, natural layer of UV protection against burning) while antioxidant green tea extract acts to encourage fat combustion and help limit the absorption of lipids. The Results: In my experience, the citrus-flavored drink definitely gave my energy a little lift during the day, and my naturally medium-toned skin took on a slightly darker cast, without a weird carrot-orange tint, after two weeks of use. Sadly, no, this potion didn’t cause weight loss, but it did leave my skin feeling slightly firmer.

Tarte Cellufight Natural Anti-Cellulite Self –Tanner is a hydrating, gradual self-tanner that’s powered, according to the company, by a clinically proven anticellulite complex. The Claim: Tanned and taut skin with one product. Moisturize and achieve a healthy, gradual glow that works on all skin tones. Formulated with “skintight” complex, a proprietary anti-cellulite complex that firms and tones skin while improving elasticity. Plant and bionutrient extracts boost cellular metabolism, shedding excess fat tissue, and caffeine helps stimulate blood flow, immediately reducing "the orange-peel" effect on problem areas such as waist, hips, thighs, and buttocks. Clinically proven antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties prevent long-term buildup of fat tissue under the skin. The Results: As a self-tanner, the gradual and subtle results are even, streak-free, and natural-looking. Because any tanning of the skin – whether real or faux – will reduce the appearance of cellulite, Cellufight does make cellulite-ridden areas look noticeably smoother and less bumpy, and my skin definitely feels firmer. Dramatic cellulite control wasn’t accomplished after two weeks of use, but I’ll think positive and continue to use the product. And though other less pricey brands offer great gradual self-tanners (Avon and Jergens to name two), I do love that Tarte’s is free of parabens, phlalates and other health-threatening ingredients.

 

Recessionista Hair Color

Recessionista Hair: Color Me Happy

It wasn’t that long ago that women, myself included, stayed fiercely loyal to their hair colorist’s advised schedule, keeping up bi-monthly appointments to banish gray hairs, every-six-week color refreshers or highlight touch-ups without question.  Those days are becoming a distant memory to colorists all over the country, at a time when even the swankiest Beverly Hills salons are noticing that their appointment books are showing some blank spaces each week. It seems that everyone, no matter what their bank balance says, is looking for ways to lower expenses, and trimming down a pricey salon habit is an easy target.

It’s not just a by-product of economic worries, the fact is that beauty companies have significantly upped their game in recent years, too, and the hair color and care industry is no exception. Ever since innovative hair-product companies like John Frieda (the first on the scene) and Frederic Fekkai (a more recent sales blockbuster) introduced their wildy-popular at-home glaze treatments, women everywhere have found that, for a fraction of the price of a salon glazing treatment, they can have glossy, shiny, unbelievably healthy-looking hair in just a few minutes. Similarly, for about one-eighth the price of salon color, the advent of idiot-proof, ten-minute root touch-up kits by Clairol, Revlon, and other beauty powerhouses, allows women to seamlessly stretch out the time between color appointments without having to suffer through an inch of tell-tale roots.

As home hair product companies offer women salon-look options for home use, the hair gurus of the world have had to adapt not only to stay competitive but also to ensure that their clients don’t completely wreck their hair in between professional treatments. Sure, it can be embarrassing, shameful or downright criminal to admit to your longtime trusted hair pro that you took fate into your own hands with a wand full of flaxen highlights in front of your bathroom mirror. But, as long as you are honest with your colorist about what you’ve used on your hair the majority of salon professionals will share some of their hard-earned guidance to keep your locks salon-look lush month after month.

Amateur colorists of the world, rejoice! One example of a hair demi-god paying it forward is Alterna’s Global Artistic Director, Michael Shaun Corby, who shares his hard-earned color expertise with us mere mortals.

Handle With Care

Fortunately for do-it-yourselfers, Corby finds that at-home color has become quite sophisticated. He says, “Years ago, it wasn’t possible to get natural-looking, rich color at home, however, with the high-tech formulas of today, it’s very possible.” Though boxed kits are easier, more professional looking and therefore more tempting to use than ever before, keep in mind that hair is not indestructible. Corby advises that the key to great results is in the treatment of the hair throughout the process, and says “Many people end up trashing their hair with at-home kits, while in the salon the stylist uses professional products that ensure the hair’s health before, during and after coloring.”

So what, exactly, does this special hair handling entail?   Corby’s best strategy for salon-quality color at home:

• Before you color, apply a rich, moisturizing hair masque, like Alterna's Caviar Hair Masque. Leave on for 15 minutes. This will deeply hydrate the hair, and make sure hair is healthy and ready for color.
• As soon as you wash out the color, shampoo hair with a mild, sulfate-free shampoo, like Alterna's Caviar Anti-Aging Moisture Shampoo. This will help neutralize the peroxide in the hair, which in non-technical terms means it will actually halt the coloring process, so the hair doesn't continue to absorb color and endure damage.
• Condition hair with a rich conditioner.

Memorize The Color Wheel

Whether you’ve invested hundreds of dollars or ten dollars on your new hair color, there’s nothing worse than watching your hard-earned hue go down the drain, literally, with each washing.

Says Corby, “Hair color, whether it's done at-home or in a salon, easily fades and turns brassy. How you care for your colored hair can make all the difference.”

Anyone who has experimented with home color has undoubtedly battled the brass at some point. Brunettes dread red tones, redheads fear orange, and blondes are determined not to go yellow. The products you choose after coloring are vital to keeping your color true and vibrant. Corby shares that Alterna addressed this very challenge:  “Alterna created three different formulas that use opposing pigments on a color wheel, to prevent those red, orange, and yellow tones from appearing.”

If you never took Art 101, the color wheel may be foreign to you, but in hair color terms, here’s all you need to know: “The Caviar Brunette line uses teal pigment to counteract unwanted red tones, the Caviar Red line uses blue pigment to counteract unwanted orange tones, and the Caviar Blonde line uses purple pigment to counteract unwanted yellow/brassy tones,” Corby explains.

Of course, staying reasonably close to your natural color (within one or two shades) is the universal cry of salon pros, and it’s wise to keep the laws of color in mind before you select an at-home shade as well, to avoid any un-natural undertones that tend to scream “Amateur!” to the world. For example, if your medium brown hair naturally has a strong red tint and you desire a deeper neutral brown color, you need to choose a shade without any warmth to cancel out your red/orange tones, usually a name that includes the words “cool, ash, neutral” in the name. And, if you’re confused by nonsense names like “Moonlit Dawn Brunette” then a visit to the company’s website or a call to their toll-free hotline for advice on choosing a shade is a absolute must.

It must also be said that when lightening dark hair, each strand cycles through a range of colors – from red to orange to yellow – before reaching a true blonde stage, and the untrained colorist risks ending up with a head of pumpkin or apricot-hued hair. (Don’t say I didn’t warn you!)

So, if you’re more apt to rush to the phone to schedule your jury duty service than to return your salon’s appointment reminder call, embrace your inner cheapskate and be thrilled that luxe-looking locks may be just a drugstore away. Count the money you’ll save by going longer between salon visits, but, I beg of you, keep these hair insider secrets in mind before you take matters into your own hands (and bathroom) and remember that when it comes to color, avoiding a mistake is infinitely easier than correcting one!

For product info and hair care tips, please visit:

www.4alternahaircare.com

www.clairol.com

www.fekkai.com

www.johnfrieda.com

www.revlon.com

Chemistry Set: Parabens

Chemistry Set

The What, Why & Controversy of Parabens

Sad, but true: unless you’ve got a degree in chemistry, you probably have very little clue what is in the beauty products that you use every day. Few of us have the time (or inclination) to analyze the laundry list of mostly unpronounceable names on the ingredients in our makeup, skin care, hair care and bath and body products. And this is not a new phenomenon – chemicals, including parabens, have been used for nearly a decade in the beauty industry, but the buzz surrounding their safety is a white-hot topic lately. And though it seems like paraben-free beauty alternatives are everywhere, your use or non-use of them is still a personal choice.

Parabens: What They Are, Why They’re Used

Parabens are chemicals used to preserve the longevity, or shelf-life, of beauty products and foods and allow them to resist extreme heat and cold. They are, and have long been, the most commonly used preservatives in the beauty industry, and are normally used in quite low levels and considered to be safe. However, questions arise regarding the safety of other types, including propylparaben, methylparaben and butylparaben. Because combining preservatives can give better protection against bacteria and microorganisms that can taint our products, mixing different types of parabens (including the questionable ones) is common.

Where You’ll Find Them

You’re most likely to see parabens on the ingredient lists of makeup, shampoos and conditioners, skin care products, sunscreen, soaps, anti-perspirants/deodorants and even toothpaste. They are easy to spot: Just look for anything that ends with “paraben.” Because a quick inventory of your beauty arsenal will likely shock you with its prevalence of parabens, it can be overwhelming to consider ridding your life of them. And, it’s worth noting that even if you do make a clean paraben-sweep, there are still many other potentially-threatening chemicals in the majority of beauty products that would still be present, and are often shrouded by confusing names, chemicals such as phthalates, the estrogen-mimicking endocrine system-disruptors, and sodium laurel sulfate, which gives shampoos and soaps their foaming and sudsing quality.

Why They’re Under Fire

Although there is no concrete, scientific evidence to prove a link between parabens and breast cancer, many Americans are choosing to play it safe and switching to paraben-free products. There are studies that show that there may be a paraben-cancer connection due to the disruption they cause to the body’s hormones and endocrine system, but again, the proof of a direct link has yet to be made. In the meantime, many new paraben-free beauty brands are launching every month, and countless others are clearing their existing products of parabens.

How To Go Paraben-Free

Just as giving your home a “green” makeover doesn’t happen overnight, if you choose to avoid parabens, there’s no reason to be wasteful and throw out every product you own. As you use items up, look for a paraben-free replacement. Many beauty websites, including Sephora.com, have special designations for paraben-free products to make them easier to spot. In your search, don’t get confused by the terms “natural,” “organic,” or the ambiguous “green.” These words aren’t interchangeable – a paraben-free product does not have to be organic, and vice versa. And, unfortunately, “natural” and “green” are basically meaningless marketing tools in today’s market, since there are no regulations to define their ingredients.

Paraben-free skin and hair products are much easier to find than paraben-free makeup, but cosmetic companies are starting to catch up now that the demand for them is so significant. The latecomer to the paraben-free game is mascara and other eye makeup items, as effective preservatives in this category are vital to keep harmful bacteria away from your eyes; Be cautious when trying out mascaras that claim to be “natural” so you know what you’re exposing them to.

Do keep in mind that even paraben-free products may contain a different type of preservative to make it safer, last longer and resist mold and bacterial growth, and you may be sensitive to them. And, be safe by being particularly aware of expiration dates, as paraben-free means a shorter shelf life. I should know better, but though I’d never consider eating food that has spoiled, I’ve ignored the expiration date on many a beauty product. Don’t do it!

Just like the choice to go vegan, go green or go gluten-free is a personal choice, so is going paraben-free. The most important thing is to be just as aware of what we put on our skin as what we put in our bodies.

Green Goddesses: SKIN

Beauty’s Green Goddesses

Part One: Angela Kim of Om Aroma Skin Care

 

For most women, unless you are trying to conceal disfiguring injuries or scars, using an assortment of beauty products every day is really a luxury – an indulgent way to embellish our faces, hair and bodies and our lives. Plus, it’s an easy way to make life a whole lot more fun. Unfortunately, so many of the very beautifying potions we use have an ugly effect on our health and on the planet. Addressing this problem is not a new notion – health-conscious companies have been developing zero-impact products for a while, but the most luxe-minded consumers weren’t switching over to them. Thankfully, the beauty industry as a whole is catching on to the “greening” of our lives and making those sketchy-textured, off-scented, potentially irritating products a thing of the past. Following in the footsteps of organic food and sustainable fashion, earth-friendly, non-toxic brands are now available in all price points, from drugstores and Target to Sephora and niche boutiques and web-tailers.

It’s a virtuous trend for sure, and whether or not a brand has a personal mission behind its formulations probably doesn’t matter as long as we are all collectively being awarded smarter, healthier choices when we go shopping. But, one of my favorite green skin care brands does happen to have a personal mission driving it, Om Aroma Skin Care. Read on to see why its creator, Angela Kim, gets my vote for Green Goddess of Skin Care.

Allergy-prone concert pianist Angela Kim turned a bad skin reaction from a lotion (on her hands, no less) into an ultra-luxe, results-oriented organic skin care line, Om Aroma. After countless trials and tribulations, she developed her line in response to the shockingly long list of synthetic and unpronounceable ingredients on that offensive bottle of lotion that she had believed was harmless. Rather than a mainstream company that went green because of consumer demand and industry trends, Om Aroma was created green – a fact that is not lost on me. Infused with treats like caviar, champagne, chardonnay and white truffles, Om Aroma’s ingredients may sound like overtly pretentious gimmicks but are actually packed with vitamins, minerals and amino acids that protect and rejuvenate the skin. I discovered the eco-friendly and eco-chic line during one bleary-eyed, late night prowl on luxist, and was initially put-off by the prices (all that caviar doesn’t come cheap, you know). My curiosity was piqued after reading more of Kim’s back-story on her own website, www.omaroma.com, and I was so enamored by the details that I invested in the Elixir de Beauté Champagne Exfoliating Cleanser ($48) and the Crème Luxe 1 White Truffle Age-Defy Cream for Oily Skin ($95) and haven’t looked back since.

So what were the details that won me over? Specifically, the Dollars and Scents program, which provides opportunities to women who are re-entering the work force and need a flexible work schedule due to having children, health issues, or a desire for a career change. That generous spirit alone made me want to love Kim’s products, but in truth, they stand on their own merits.

 

Green Goddesses: Hair

Beauty’s Green Goddesses

Part Two: Louise Galvin of Sacred Locks

Who doesn’t love that feeling of swirling handfuls of foamy shampoo suds into our hair, leaving it squeaky-clean? Turns out that the simple act of shampooing our hair could be damaging it, thanks to nasty ingredients like silicones, sulfates, petrols, parabens and more. Sulfates cause shampoo (and other soaps and cleansers) to lather up, and de-grease and de-gunk your hair and scalp by dissolving oil and dirt. Unfortunately, sulfate shampoos can also dry out your hair, strip its color and even potentially damage your health. Add silicone to the ingredient list (it’s the ubiquitous hair smoother and shiner, loved by frizz-fighting-freaks) and now you’ve got dry hair that’s coated with a synthetic film that only temporarily glosses. Eventually, this plastic-like coating builds up and needs to be stripped off with a clarifying shampoo. This whole bit sounds nothing like soft, shiny, swingy hair, does it? Enter my pick for Green Goddess of Hair, internationally-renowned colorist Louise Galvin, who created the revolutionary Sacred Locks brand to address these very concerns.

The eldest daughter of famed British colorist Daniel Galvin, Louise spent much of her childhood learning the Brit-Glam beauty scene in her father’s eponymous salon.  Still a highly sought-after colorist there, Galvin has created and oversees the production of Sacred Locks, one of the most natural, eco-friendly yet ultra-luxe hair care lines on the market. The collection consists of shampoos, conditioners and masques divided into fine, or curly categories as well as a totally scent-free range for mothers-to-be. My use of the products for fine hair gives me nothing less than jaw-dropping results: brighter highlights and smooth, shiny, glisten-y hair. With hair as dry as mine, the fact that I can describe it as “glisten-y” is a stop-the-presses moment.

The mystery is how a product can leave hair so unbelievably silky, shimmery and full of body without any nasty oils, silicones or build up, but it seems that Galvin has found the answer. The entire Sacred Locks line (as well as the newer Natural Locks line for colored hair) uses only natural or naturally-derived ingredients such as essential oils of grapefruit, lemon, orange, geranium and mandarin and natural extracts and vegetable-derived moisturizing and conditioning agents in place of harmful, artificial preservatives. The products are also free of sulfates, parabens, phlalates, silicone, petrochemicals, synthetic fragrances and preservatives. 

Better still, the entire line is carbon-neutral, making Galvin a pioneer not only a leading colorist but a true Green Goddess. Galvin took the unprecedented step of being the first beauty company to offset its carbon emissions and strive to reduce its carbon footprint. The Louise Galvin company is committed to The Carbon Neutral Company and its Carbon Neutral Program, which aims to neutralize or offset the contributions made by businesses and businesses to global warming. Product junkie that I am, I think the sublime citrus scent and gorgeously girly-goth bottles are just vegan icing on the organic cake.

Please visit www.louisegalvin.com for more information or to order products.

 

Damage Control: Summer Hair

Damage Control for Summer Hair

It happens to me every summer. In May, I get a gorgeous sandy blonde hair color with a meticulously-painted sprinkling of baby blonde highlights, courtesy of whichever hair guru I’ve been stalking for an appointment since spring. I leave the salon with a much lighter wallet and a heavy shopping bag full of the requisite hair cleansers and potions, determined to preserve my color perfection for as long as possible – at least until July 4^th. Yet, within a few weeks, my spun gold color has withered and worn into a brassy yellow. I can’t blame the colorist nor the fancy products when the fact is that I have only myself to blame. A couple of afternoons at the beach, maybe a swim or two plus those seemingly innocuous morning walks and I’ve ruined my hair for the rest of the summer. But what’s the alternative? Avoiding every activity that makes summer so much fun? Sporting a hat 24/7? Taking up night swimming?

Yes, it seems that even with the best intentions, our hard-won, luminous hair color and silken texture are destined to become a thicket of parched, sun-bleached, weakened and frayed strands by fall. While the constant stream of cutting-edge sun protection for skin can keep our faces and bodies relatively shaded from the sun’s damaging rays, the choices for sun shields made specifically for hair are a much smaller pool. However, there is hope. Some of the best luxury hair-care brands are addressing the need for summer-induced damage prevention with targeted products for pre-and post-sun, (and chlorine and salt) protecting the hair’s natural gloss and vitality.

Stock your summer beauty kit with any of these hair protectors to avoid the hair horror show come Labor Day. I’ve taken my own pledge of diligence this time around and vow to never enter pool nor beach party without them.

PhytoPlage L’Originale Protective Beach Spray ($18, www.sephora.com) screens UV rays while infusing hair with potent olive oil extract for a great sheen while in the sun and a soft brilliance later.

Philip Kingsley Swimcap ($42, www.amazon.com) is applied pre-beach as an ultra-drenching conditioning cream that prevents color fade and renders sun, chlorine and salt virtually harmless to your hair. Let it do its work while you surf, sun and stroll and you’ll have softer, shinier hair by dusk.

The Rene Furturer Apres-Soleil Collection (available at www.beauty.com), uses a KPF, or Keratin Protection Factor, system to indicate the percentage protection of keratin, which is an essential component of hair that is broken down by the sun’s rays. Product picks: Huile Nutritive Spray KPF 90 ($23), which, when applied pre-sun/swim, screens the hair from UV rays and prevents salt and chlorine from depositing on the hair. Afterwards, the Apres-Soleil Shampooing Nourrissant ($23) is a must to restore clean, shiny, supple hair, thanks to a super-soothing formula of palm butter and soybean, finished with the Apres-Soleil Baume Nourrissant ($23), which nourishes and repairs split, damaged ends before they have the chance to creep up the whole hair shaft.

Skincare Secret Ingredients: Vitamin C

Skincare Secret Ingredients --What Works, What’s A Waste

Volume One: Vitamin C

The ABC’s of skincare are virtually impossible to keep up with, and trust me, I do my best. Each year, the laundry list of so-called wonder ingredients ranges from the exotic (Blue Orchid Extract) and extravagant (Gold) to the confusing (Coffeeberry?) to the flat-out weird (Human Growth Factor, anyone?). Even if you were inclined enough – and cash fluid enough – to try every new buzzed-about beauty cream, could your skin handle all of it? More importantly, would you notice a difference in your skin?

In my altruistic, self-sacrificing pledge to demystify all things beauty, I will attempt to translate the lingo of skincare ingredients, one by one.

First in the series is Vitamin C, that sunshine-in-a-bottle, natural healer and skin brightener that has found its way into nearly every type of face fixer, from cleansers to masks to serums and creams.

What It Is: Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a topical agent and super-antioxidant whose effectiveness in treating aging skin is actually backed by much scientific research.

What It Does:  Known to diminish wrinkles and fine lines, it has recently become much more ubiquitous as a skin “brightener” that promises more radiant, even skin tone. While aging and sun exposure naturally decrease our skin’s collagen production and increase hyper-pigmentation in the form of sunspots, melasma or uneven tone, Vitamin C’s antioxidant powers stimulate the quantity and quality of collagen synthesis and reduce melanin production.

Why I Love It:  Because my two biggest skin woes are wrinkles and sunspots, I personally adore Vitamin C and believe in its skin-perfecting potential. I find that it leaves my skin firmer, as well.

…And Why Some Don’t: Vitamin C is an instable ingredient, which lessens its practicality from a usage standpoint. When exposed to air, it oxidizes, rendering it not only ineffective but potentially harmful as it increases free radical formation. In fact, a typical Vitamin C cream can lose up to 85% of its effectiveness just an hour after opening the jar (Ouch!).

Why It’s Pricey:  Some savvy skincare companies stabilize the Vitamin C, which oxidize less quickly, but at a cost.  The products with the highest concentration of stabilized Vitamin C will, naturally, be more expensive than lesser versions.

Find It In:

Dr. Sebagh Vitamin C Powder Cream, $155; www.blissworld.com. Dr. Sebagh’s patented, revolutionary way of conquering the stability problem – mix his powder, which is the most potent, freshest and most absorbable form, with his cream (or your own favorite) so your skin gets the strongest Vitamin C dose possible without risk of oxidation.

Perricone Pigment Corrective, $95; www.bluemercury.com. Dims sun spots with the power of Vitamin C, plus improves skin tone and elasticity.

Cellex-C Eye Contour Gel, $65; www.drugstore.com. Firms the eye are while lessening wrinkles and crow’s feet, with a patented Vitamin C formula for the eye area.

Aveda Embrightenment Brightening Intensive Massage Masque,  $45; www.aveda.com. Use as a weekly treatment to fade spots and even out skin tone.

The Verdict: Vitamin C lives up to its hype. 

 

MAC Attack!

MAC Attack! 

In all honesty, I’ve harbored an irrational bias against the MAC brand for years. After one heavy-handed “makeover” at a department store MAC counter many years ago, I shrugged it off as a contrived, more-flash-than substance beauty brand better suited for glitter-mad tween stars or the type of middle-aged women who wear Hello Kitty diamond jewelry. (Last spring’s Hello Kitty collection didn’t exactly change my mind.)

I’ve never even been swayed by the many professional makeup artist kits I adore spying on, kits that always hold more than a few MAC products for film and TV actresses, magazine photo shoots, ultra-finicky brides and other pretties. Someone in the know is always raving over some dab of Studio Fix something or other here, some swipe of LustreGlass there, but nothing relevant to Real Life Beauty. Or so I thought.

I have a very conservative friend who rocks the whole tennis club look with bobbed hair, pearl-studs and head-to-toe L.L. Beanery. And yet…the only makeup she will wear is MAC. That girl, she loves her some glitter for “date night” and for everyday, she’s all mauvey-plummy shimmers or frosts. She’s been a loyalist ever since the brand’s RuPaul days and won’t try anything else. So, on a recent shopping trip for gifts for her teenage nieces, she insisted on the MAC store no matter how many other ideas I offered up.  I lethargically followed her from display to display, barely noticing the products amidst the elbow-to-elbow customers, blaring music, crazy strobe lights and gooey-glam decor.  Snob that I am, I resisted repeated sales pitches with “No thanks, I’m good” or exasperated “I’m just waiting for her” nods towards my friend. And then, it happened.

In minutes, my friend had been replaced by a younger, smoother, glowing yet frost-free woman. I couldn’t tell where her foundation or blush began or ended – she was a smooth, plush blend of even skin and velvety Mandy Moore-peachy cheeks.  “Wow,” I breathed, “You look amazing!” The MAC Girl cooed “It’s the new foundation – Studio Sculpt – you’ve gotta see it on.” I finally caved in to a mini-makeover and was, I must admit, totally won over. The lightweight, gel-based Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation ($28) gives medium coverage, but can be layered for more while still disappearing into your skin. The finish is fairly matte, but not mask-like. A light dusting of the invisible Prep+Prime Transparent Finishing Powder ($21) blotted down my shinier spots and a light sweep of Fleur Power Satin Powder Blush ($18), a fresh, bright pinky-coral, finished the naturally flawless glow that I was more than proud to flaunt around the mall.

Yes, to get to the Real Life Beauty I did have to skip over the kitschy, Bad-Kitty glittery gloss and peacock eye shadow, but beneath MAC’s oft-gimmicky limited-run collections is some magnificent “everywoman” makeup. I admit when I’ve been wrong; MAC, you’ve sold me. All products are available at www.maccosmetics.com.