ABCs of Skin Care: GOLD

Skincare Secret Ingredients --What Works, What’s A Waste

Volume Three:  Gold

Just when you thought that luxury skin care products couldn’t get any more indulgent, exotic or downright logic-defying, enter the trend of treatments containing pure gold.

Yes, it sounds like a ridiculous badge of conspicuous consumption, but many skin care professionals say that it’s actually a legitimately effective skin treatment and not just a gimmick.

Facials using “liquid” gold or gold leaf masks have been popular at exclusive spas for several years. But, at upwards of $200 for an hour-long treatment, they have reportedly felt the effects of our economic downturn causing many spas to temporarily take services using gold (and diamond dust as well) off of their menus. While the ultra-pricey in-spa treatments are taking a hiatus at many locations, surprisingly, the number of consumer skin products using gold are increasing each month and the trend isn’t going away anytime soon.

The History: It’s said that Cleopatra slept in a pure gold mask each night, ancient Chinese medicine sees gold as an elixir of youth, and the Indian healing art of Ayurveda believes that it has the ability to increase blood circulation, firm and detoxify skin and decrease wrinkles. Gold’s potent anti-inflammatory properties made it an effective treatment for rheumatoid arthritis nearly a century ago.

How It’s Used: Gold itself can’t be absorbed into the skin, it must be delivered to layers of the skin through a delivery system, such as the colloidal suspension system used by some brands.

What It Does: According to Cherie Dobbs of Prana SpaCeuticals, gold works like a magnet to pull out the toxins and free radicals from your skin, so that it’s natural systems can work at peak performance.

Utilizing the principle that inflammation can cause premature aging, gold’s anti-inflammatory powers would, in theory, make it a good remedy for fading sun damage and spots, and to firm and tighten skin. Gold reportedly speeds up cell renewal, prevents sagging skin by slowing down the breakdown of elastin and collagen depletion, and fights off damaging free radicals.

Find It In: Skin serums are more readily absorbed than creams and reportedly increase the effectiveness of the products that are applied over it. Gold- infused Prana SpaCeuticals AU 24K Facial Skin Rejuvenation Serum ($96, www.pranaspaceuticals.com), claims to stimulate cellular growth to promote healthy looking skin, leaves skin smoother and glowing and stimulates blood flow, while Sjal Serum 1 ($245; www.sjalskincare.com) includes gold in its super-powered and super-earth-friendly ingredient list, and claims to increase oxygen, hydration and elasticity, lift the skin and decrease wrinkles.

Skin creams that deliver nanoparticles of pure 24 karat gold, like Chantecaille Nano Gold Energizing Cream ($420) which claims to regenerate skin at the cellular level to heal, revitalize, promote collagen production and consistently replenish skin’s energy, and Chantecaille Nano Gold Energizing Eye Cream ($260), which touts the same claims in addition to diffusing light to dim under eye circles, de-puff and lift, and increase elasticity and firmness to the eye area. Both at www.barneys.com.

Makeup primers containing pure 24 karat gold, such as La Prairie Cellular Treatment Gold Illusion ($150) and Guerlain L’Or Radiance Concentrate Makeup Base ($70), may be used on bare skin either alone or pre-foundation as a canvas to blur or “fill in” lines and wrinkles, provide a gentle tightening effect, and leave a subtly shimmering glow to your skin. Both at www.neimanmarcus.com.

The Verdict: I’m mixed on the metal. After trying out the above products, each one gave me a temporary glow, but not unlike other turbo-powered skin cocktails that cost less.  I didn’t notice a tangible improvement in my skin with the face or eye creams; The makeup primers, as all primers do, left my skin velvety-smooth and made my foundation look flawless and last longer, but the illumination was of course just a temporary effect, not a true skin fix. However, both of the serums are – pardon the pun – worth their weight in gold for my skin. The silky texture felt lightweight but gave great hydration, my skin was tighter and luminous after just a few weeks of use, and left me with zero breakouts. Financial advice: a serum is the best investment piece if you’re curious about the skin-perfecting powers of gold.