Green Goddesses: SKIN

Beauty’s Green Goddesses

Part One: Angela Kim of Om Aroma Skin Care

 

For most women, unless you are trying to conceal disfiguring injuries or scars, using an assortment of beauty products every day is really a luxury – an indulgent way to embellish our faces, hair and bodies and our lives. Plus, it’s an easy way to make life a whole lot more fun. Unfortunately, so many of the very beautifying potions we use have an ugly effect on our health and on the planet. Addressing this problem is not a new notion – health-conscious companies have been developing zero-impact products for a while, but the most luxe-minded consumers weren’t switching over to them. Thankfully, the beauty industry as a whole is catching on to the “greening” of our lives and making those sketchy-textured, off-scented, potentially irritating products a thing of the past. Following in the footsteps of organic food and sustainable fashion, earth-friendly, non-toxic brands are now available in all price points, from drugstores and Target to Sephora and niche boutiques and web-tailers.

It’s a virtuous trend for sure, and whether or not a brand has a personal mission behind its formulations probably doesn’t matter as long as we are all collectively being awarded smarter, healthier choices when we go shopping. But, one of my favorite green skin care brands does happen to have a personal mission driving it, Om Aroma Skin Care. Read on to see why its creator, Angela Kim, gets my vote for Green Goddess of Skin Care.

Allergy-prone concert pianist Angela Kim turned a bad skin reaction from a lotion (on her hands, no less) into an ultra-luxe, results-oriented organic skin care line, Om Aroma. After countless trials and tribulations, she developed her line in response to the shockingly long list of synthetic and unpronounceable ingredients on that offensive bottle of lotion that she had believed was harmless. Rather than a mainstream company that went green because of consumer demand and industry trends, Om Aroma was created green – a fact that is not lost on me. Infused with treats like caviar, champagne, chardonnay and white truffles, Om Aroma’s ingredients may sound like overtly pretentious gimmicks but are actually packed with vitamins, minerals and amino acids that protect and rejuvenate the skin. I discovered the eco-friendly and eco-chic line during one bleary-eyed, late night prowl on luxist, and was initially put-off by the prices (all that caviar doesn’t come cheap, you know). My curiosity was piqued after reading more of Kim’s back-story on her own website, www.omaroma.com, and I was so enamored by the details that I invested in the Elixir de Beauté Champagne Exfoliating Cleanser ($48) and the Crème Luxe 1 White Truffle Age-Defy Cream for Oily Skin ($95) and haven’t looked back since.

So what were the details that won me over? Specifically, the Dollars and Scents program, which provides opportunities to women who are re-entering the work force and need a flexible work schedule due to having children, health issues, or a desire for a career change. That generous spirit alone made me want to love Kim’s products, but in truth, they stand on their own merits.

 

Green Goddesses: Hair

Beauty’s Green Goddesses

Part Two: Louise Galvin of Sacred Locks

Who doesn’t love that feeling of swirling handfuls of foamy shampoo suds into our hair, leaving it squeaky-clean? Turns out that the simple act of shampooing our hair could be damaging it, thanks to nasty ingredients like silicones, sulfates, petrols, parabens and more. Sulfates cause shampoo (and other soaps and cleansers) to lather up, and de-grease and de-gunk your hair and scalp by dissolving oil and dirt. Unfortunately, sulfate shampoos can also dry out your hair, strip its color and even potentially damage your health. Add silicone to the ingredient list (it’s the ubiquitous hair smoother and shiner, loved by frizz-fighting-freaks) and now you’ve got dry hair that’s coated with a synthetic film that only temporarily glosses. Eventually, this plastic-like coating builds up and needs to be stripped off with a clarifying shampoo. This whole bit sounds nothing like soft, shiny, swingy hair, does it? Enter my pick for Green Goddess of Hair, internationally-renowned colorist Louise Galvin, who created the revolutionary Sacred Locks brand to address these very concerns.

The eldest daughter of famed British colorist Daniel Galvin, Louise spent much of her childhood learning the Brit-Glam beauty scene in her father’s eponymous salon.  Still a highly sought-after colorist there, Galvin has created and oversees the production of Sacred Locks, one of the most natural, eco-friendly yet ultra-luxe hair care lines on the market. The collection consists of shampoos, conditioners and masques divided into fine, or curly categories as well as a totally scent-free range for mothers-to-be. My use of the products for fine hair gives me nothing less than jaw-dropping results: brighter highlights and smooth, shiny, glisten-y hair. With hair as dry as mine, the fact that I can describe it as “glisten-y” is a stop-the-presses moment.

The mystery is how a product can leave hair so unbelievably silky, shimmery and full of body without any nasty oils, silicones or build up, but it seems that Galvin has found the answer. The entire Sacred Locks line (as well as the newer Natural Locks line for colored hair) uses only natural or naturally-derived ingredients such as essential oils of grapefruit, lemon, orange, geranium and mandarin and natural extracts and vegetable-derived moisturizing and conditioning agents in place of harmful, artificial preservatives. The products are also free of sulfates, parabens, phlalates, silicone, petrochemicals, synthetic fragrances and preservatives. 

Better still, the entire line is carbon-neutral, making Galvin a pioneer not only a leading colorist but a true Green Goddess. Galvin took the unprecedented step of being the first beauty company to offset its carbon emissions and strive to reduce its carbon footprint. The Louise Galvin company is committed to The Carbon Neutral Company and its Carbon Neutral Program, which aims to neutralize or offset the contributions made by businesses and businesses to global warming. Product junkie that I am, I think the sublime citrus scent and gorgeously girly-goth bottles are just vegan icing on the organic cake.

Please visit www.louisegalvin.com for more information or to order products.

 

Damage Control: Summer Hair

Damage Control for Summer Hair

It happens to me every summer. In May, I get a gorgeous sandy blonde hair color with a meticulously-painted sprinkling of baby blonde highlights, courtesy of whichever hair guru I’ve been stalking for an appointment since spring. I leave the salon with a much lighter wallet and a heavy shopping bag full of the requisite hair cleansers and potions, determined to preserve my color perfection for as long as possible – at least until July 4^th. Yet, within a few weeks, my spun gold color has withered and worn into a brassy yellow. I can’t blame the colorist nor the fancy products when the fact is that I have only myself to blame. A couple of afternoons at the beach, maybe a swim or two plus those seemingly innocuous morning walks and I’ve ruined my hair for the rest of the summer. But what’s the alternative? Avoiding every activity that makes summer so much fun? Sporting a hat 24/7? Taking up night swimming?

Yes, it seems that even with the best intentions, our hard-won, luminous hair color and silken texture are destined to become a thicket of parched, sun-bleached, weakened and frayed strands by fall. While the constant stream of cutting-edge sun protection for skin can keep our faces and bodies relatively shaded from the sun’s damaging rays, the choices for sun shields made specifically for hair are a much smaller pool. However, there is hope. Some of the best luxury hair-care brands are addressing the need for summer-induced damage prevention with targeted products for pre-and post-sun, (and chlorine and salt) protecting the hair’s natural gloss and vitality.

Stock your summer beauty kit with any of these hair protectors to avoid the hair horror show come Labor Day. I’ve taken my own pledge of diligence this time around and vow to never enter pool nor beach party without them.

PhytoPlage L’Originale Protective Beach Spray ($18, www.sephora.com) screens UV rays while infusing hair with potent olive oil extract for a great sheen while in the sun and a soft brilliance later.

Philip Kingsley Swimcap ($42, www.amazon.com) is applied pre-beach as an ultra-drenching conditioning cream that prevents color fade and renders sun, chlorine and salt virtually harmless to your hair. Let it do its work while you surf, sun and stroll and you’ll have softer, shinier hair by dusk.

The Rene Furturer Apres-Soleil Collection (available at www.beauty.com), uses a KPF, or Keratin Protection Factor, system to indicate the percentage protection of keratin, which is an essential component of hair that is broken down by the sun’s rays. Product picks: Huile Nutritive Spray KPF 90 ($23), which, when applied pre-sun/swim, screens the hair from UV rays and prevents salt and chlorine from depositing on the hair. Afterwards, the Apres-Soleil Shampooing Nourrissant ($23) is a must to restore clean, shiny, supple hair, thanks to a super-soothing formula of palm butter and soybean, finished with the Apres-Soleil Baume Nourrissant ($23), which nourishes and repairs split, damaged ends before they have the chance to creep up the whole hair shaft.

Skincare Secret Ingredients: Vitamin C

Skincare Secret Ingredients --What Works, What’s A Waste

Volume One: Vitamin C

The ABC’s of skincare are virtually impossible to keep up with, and trust me, I do my best. Each year, the laundry list of so-called wonder ingredients ranges from the exotic (Blue Orchid Extract) and extravagant (Gold) to the confusing (Coffeeberry?) to the flat-out weird (Human Growth Factor, anyone?). Even if you were inclined enough – and cash fluid enough – to try every new buzzed-about beauty cream, could your skin handle all of it? More importantly, would you notice a difference in your skin?

In my altruistic, self-sacrificing pledge to demystify all things beauty, I will attempt to translate the lingo of skincare ingredients, one by one.

First in the series is Vitamin C, that sunshine-in-a-bottle, natural healer and skin brightener that has found its way into nearly every type of face fixer, from cleansers to masks to serums and creams.

What It Is: Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a topical agent and super-antioxidant whose effectiveness in treating aging skin is actually backed by much scientific research.

What It Does:  Known to diminish wrinkles and fine lines, it has recently become much more ubiquitous as a skin “brightener” that promises more radiant, even skin tone. While aging and sun exposure naturally decrease our skin’s collagen production and increase hyper-pigmentation in the form of sunspots, melasma or uneven tone, Vitamin C’s antioxidant powers stimulate the quantity and quality of collagen synthesis and reduce melanin production.

Why I Love It:  Because my two biggest skin woes are wrinkles and sunspots, I personally adore Vitamin C and believe in its skin-perfecting potential. I find that it leaves my skin firmer, as well.

…And Why Some Don’t: Vitamin C is an instable ingredient, which lessens its practicality from a usage standpoint. When exposed to air, it oxidizes, rendering it not only ineffective but potentially harmful as it increases free radical formation. In fact, a typical Vitamin C cream can lose up to 85% of its effectiveness just an hour after opening the jar (Ouch!).

Why It’s Pricey:  Some savvy skincare companies stabilize the Vitamin C, which oxidize less quickly, but at a cost.  The products with the highest concentration of stabilized Vitamin C will, naturally, be more expensive than lesser versions.

Find It In:

Dr. Sebagh Vitamin C Powder Cream, $155; www.blissworld.com. Dr. Sebagh’s patented, revolutionary way of conquering the stability problem – mix his powder, which is the most potent, freshest and most absorbable form, with his cream (or your own favorite) so your skin gets the strongest Vitamin C dose possible without risk of oxidation.

Perricone Pigment Corrective, $95; www.bluemercury.com. Dims sun spots with the power of Vitamin C, plus improves skin tone and elasticity.

Cellex-C Eye Contour Gel, $65; www.drugstore.com. Firms the eye are while lessening wrinkles and crow’s feet, with a patented Vitamin C formula for the eye area.

Aveda Embrightenment Brightening Intensive Massage Masque,  $45; www.aveda.com. Use as a weekly treatment to fade spots and even out skin tone.

The Verdict: Vitamin C lives up to its hype. 

 

MAC Attack!

MAC Attack! 

In all honesty, I’ve harbored an irrational bias against the MAC brand for years. After one heavy-handed “makeover” at a department store MAC counter many years ago, I shrugged it off as a contrived, more-flash-than substance beauty brand better suited for glitter-mad tween stars or the type of middle-aged women who wear Hello Kitty diamond jewelry. (Last spring’s Hello Kitty collection didn’t exactly change my mind.)

I’ve never even been swayed by the many professional makeup artist kits I adore spying on, kits that always hold more than a few MAC products for film and TV actresses, magazine photo shoots, ultra-finicky brides and other pretties. Someone in the know is always raving over some dab of Studio Fix something or other here, some swipe of LustreGlass there, but nothing relevant to Real Life Beauty. Or so I thought.

I have a very conservative friend who rocks the whole tennis club look with bobbed hair, pearl-studs and head-to-toe L.L. Beanery. And yet…the only makeup she will wear is MAC. That girl, she loves her some glitter for “date night” and for everyday, she’s all mauvey-plummy shimmers or frosts. She’s been a loyalist ever since the brand’s RuPaul days and won’t try anything else. So, on a recent shopping trip for gifts for her teenage nieces, she insisted on the MAC store no matter how many other ideas I offered up.  I lethargically followed her from display to display, barely noticing the products amidst the elbow-to-elbow customers, blaring music, crazy strobe lights and gooey-glam decor.  Snob that I am, I resisted repeated sales pitches with “No thanks, I’m good” or exasperated “I’m just waiting for her” nods towards my friend. And then, it happened.

In minutes, my friend had been replaced by a younger, smoother, glowing yet frost-free woman. I couldn’t tell where her foundation or blush began or ended – she was a smooth, plush blend of even skin and velvety Mandy Moore-peachy cheeks.  “Wow,” I breathed, “You look amazing!” The MAC Girl cooed “It’s the new foundation – Studio Sculpt – you’ve gotta see it on.” I finally caved in to a mini-makeover and was, I must admit, totally won over. The lightweight, gel-based Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation ($28) gives medium coverage, but can be layered for more while still disappearing into your skin. The finish is fairly matte, but not mask-like. A light dusting of the invisible Prep+Prime Transparent Finishing Powder ($21) blotted down my shinier spots and a light sweep of Fleur Power Satin Powder Blush ($18), a fresh, bright pinky-coral, finished the naturally flawless glow that I was more than proud to flaunt around the mall.

Yes, to get to the Real Life Beauty I did have to skip over the kitschy, Bad-Kitty glittery gloss and peacock eye shadow, but beneath MAC’s oft-gimmicky limited-run collections is some magnificent “everywoman” makeup. I admit when I’ve been wrong; MAC, you’ve sold me. All products are available at www.maccosmetics.com.

Best of the Best Hand Creams

 

Ooh, oooooh, Witchy Woman…

This is stating the obvious, but I will spend outrageous money on skincare for my face, provided that the results can justify the credit card statement. Thankfully, the years of skin splurgery have done well for me and on a good day I can pass for a decade younger than my actual age. But, with all this attention on my face I somehow neglected to treat my hands with the same care. Though I have many glamorous tubes of hand creams with fancy names tucked in drawers, displayed on my night stand and stashed in my handbag, I am guilty of both hoarding them and ignoring them, never managing to actually use them. Instead, my aging hands have been short-changed, subsiding solely on the extra blob of whatever baby lotion I’m using on my kids plus multiple-daily pumps of hospital-strength (and criminally skin-crackling) hand sanitizers.

So, it should have been no surprise when my son recently accused me of having “witch hands.” Now, at the time, I brushed off the insult, reminding myself that the green Play-Dough under my nails and splatters of craft glue all over my palms would make anyone look witchy. But, after I scrubbed them clean, even I couldn’t argue the truth: red, cracked skin on my knuckles, crepe-paper like texture and a sprinkling of sun spots.

Since that day, I have been slathering my hands with cream after luscious cream, gleefully amazed at how quickly the right magic mix of emollients can restore my hands to Fair Maiden state.  Following are my extremely non-scientific, wholly personal favorite splurge-worthy remedies for Instant Witch Hand Healing. Ding-dong, the witch is, indeed dead.

 

Kiehl’s Ultimate Strength Hand Salve, $12.50 for 2.5 ounces at www.kiehls.com. This is my favorite bedtime cream – like an invisible glove of moisture that gives you smooth, soft, scale-free skin by morning.

L’Annine Fresh Lemon Oil Hand and Body Cream, $16 for 2.2 ounces at  www.beautyhabit.com.  The super sunshine-y lemon oil scent is reason enough for accolades and the moisture-rich, silicone-based cream is sublime.

A consistent spa best-seller, Bliss High Intensity Hand Cream, $18 for 2.5 ounces at www.blissworld.com, is super-rich yet non-greasy, sinks in fast and works wonders for ragged cuticles.

The cream that made the brand a household name, L’Occitane Shea Butter Hand Cream, $26 for 5.2 ounces at www.loccitane.com, lives up to its hype. This supremely smoothing, fast-absorbing healing cream is packed with a whopping 20% shea butter, and a light scent of jasmine and ylang-ylang.

Like a spa paraffin-wrap in a tube, the indulgent feel of Estée Lauder Re-Nutrive Intensive Smoothing Hand Cream, $45 for 3.4 ounces at www.esteelauder.com, even lasts through a hand washing. It’s deeply hydrating, helps to fade sunspots, smoothes lines and creepiness and is worth the spend.

Sunscreen Lite

SPF Lite: The New Breed of Facial Sunscreens 

I’m amazed that after all these years, the Trident people have never gotten that pesky fifth dentist to cave to the peer pressure of the other four and just recommend their gum. What gives? It’s a relief that among dermatologists, there’s no stubborn naysayer ruining the statistics. The group agrees that the use of a sunscreen of at least SPF 30 is mandatory on exposed areas (face, backs of hands) every day of the year – whether you’re trapped in a cubicle in Seattle or lounging on the beach in Miami – to prevent signs of aging, like sun spots and wrinkles, as well as (and even more importantly) lessening your risk of certain types of skin cancer. 

Beauty industry icons like Bobbi Brown and Patricia Wexler M.D. are in agreement as well, naming the sun as the skin’s worst enemy. According to Brown, it’s vital to select a broad-spectrum sunscreen, meaning that it protects against both harmful ultraviolet rays – the potentially cancer-causing UVA rays and the UVB rays that cause wrinkles. Brown explains that both types of indiscriminate rays “penetrate the epidermis and continue into the dermis” and damage skin cells.

Dr. Wexler believes that protection from daily aggressors, including UV rays, is the key to preserving and maintaining youthful skin, and explains, “Constant exposure to pollution, sun, and the stress of modern living can result in dull, damaged and prematurely aged skin.”

So now we know that the experts agree on the villainess powers of the sun and most reasonably intelligent people will load up on sunscreen during a day spent in its evil rays. Yet, why is it that even the most diligent among us make excuses to skip this step on the average workday? For one thing, on those rushed mornings when we already have a slew of products to apply, it’s so tempting to just skip the sunscreen layer altogether. Secondly, many a so-called “facial” sunscreen formulation is guilty of myriad sins such as causing oiliness, clogged pores and break-outs, and the white chalk finish is anything but invisible. Lastly, even the most light-as-air, impeccably blended foundations and powders end up looking like thick beige globs when they are applied over sunscreen – a look that flatters exactly no one. I’ve tried many types, from drugstore bargains-but-busts to overpriced and underwhelming niche brands, and had given up on finding a truly great facial sun shield…until now. 

From here on, excuses, schmexcuses, facial sunscreen doesn’t have to be a sticky, chemical-laden beauty-kill. Quite the opposite; the following sun protectors are equally great alone or under makeup and actually make your skin look better.

Ole Henriksen Sun-Light Protection Crème With Green Tea SPF 30 is free of parabens and sulfates but packed with antioxidant anti-agers like green tea and algae extract and feels like a face treatment. Matte finish but great for drier skin types, $28; www.olehenriksen.com.

Laboratoire Remede Translucent UV Coat SPF 30 is one of my all-time favorite beauty buys as the best primer-sunscreen-meets-sheer tint hybrid out there. It’s oil-free, goes on like water and uses soft-foscusing powders for an incredible finish. The coverage isn’t a stand-in for foundation by any means, but it’s a giant step above regular sunscreen on your not-so-pretty days, $40; www.blissworld.com.

La Mer The SPF 30 UV Protecting Fluid lives up to its lineage by bringing luxury to the oft-clinical UVA/UVB blocking game. Silky and lightweight, the Fluid diffuses light for a subtle glow and blurs imperfections. Because it hydrates well yet absorbs ultra-quickly into a matte finish, its multi-tasking ability as a makeup primer helps me justify the price tag, $65; www.lamer.com.

MISSION Skincare, the brand created and tested by Serena Williams and other superstar athletes, formulated its Anti-Sting SPF 30+ Facestick to address the need for a UVA/UVB shield that doesn’t run into or sting the eyes, stays where you put it and doesn’t feel greasy. Toss the travel-friendly stick into your purse or beach bag for a quick mess-free SPF swipe on ears, nose, scalp, face, anywhere you need it. Best applied as a touch up over, not under, your makeup throughout the day, $8.99; www.beauty.com.

Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch SPF 30 does the impossible by giving waterproof, sweatproof, rubproof UVA/UVB protection without clogging pores. It’s light, matte, transparent, and quite nearly perfect, $9.99; Drugstores.

Shed A Layer: Tinted Moisturizers with SPF

No longer pointless, greasy combos of inferior humectants and mediocre, zero-coverage foundation, there are now exceptional tinted moisturizers with SPF that are worthy of their 2-in-1 claims and allow you to protect and perfect with one less layer of “stuff.” Among the best:

For Dry Skin: Patricia Wexler M.D. Dermatology Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 blocks UVA/UVB rays, drenches skin with time-released moisture and camouflages flaws with dewy coverage, $29.50; www.bathandbodyworks.com.

For Normal Skin: Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 – Illuminating Formula takes the cult-classic original formula up a notch with micronized pearls for luminous, lightweight radiance, $42; www.lauramercier.com.

For Oily/Combo Skin: Tarte Smooth Operator SPF 20 infuses skin with lightweight moisture while blurring fine lines and wrinkles, and gives the most silky, natural, glowy yet non-slick finish, $35; www.tartecosmetics.com.

 

 

Chakra-Healing Scents: Nirvana In A Bottle

Chakra-Healing Scents: Nirvana In A Bottle

According to traditional Indian medicine, the human body contains seven “Chakras,” or energy centers, which are located along the spine at major branchings of the human nervous system, beginning at the base of the spinal column and moving upward to the top of the skull. Chakras are considered to be points of biophysical energy or prana of the human body. In theory, each chakra influences the body’s functions near its region of the spine. Followers of chakra healing believe that these centers are the key to life and the source of energy in the universe.

A few months ago, I indulged my adventurous side (which, incidentally, only surfaces at spas) and tread into the realm of energy healing spa treatments. After receiving two equally peculiar yet truly astonishing “chakra healing” treatments, one at the Chopra Center at La Costa Resort in Carlsbad, California, and one at the Canyon Ranch Spa in Las Vegas, I proclaimed my devotion to balancing my chakras. Much to the amusement of my friends and family, I vowed to only consume the food and teas that release energy blockages and would shun energy-vampires like commercialism, gossip and reality TV in favor of yoga, meditation and organic gardening. And then Monday morning came, and I stomped away when my husband smirked at my mug of mega-caffed coffee and bowl of Frosted Flakes and asked me how my chakras were doing. So much for vows. And yet, my curiosity was still piqued, even if my willpower was not. There must be a way to incorporate this feel-good magical energy into my every day life without giving up Twizzlers or Real Housewives: Atlanta, right? So, as I do any time that I reach a critical challenge in my life, I turned to beauty products.

When I recently asked Jane Hendler, Parfumeur & Co-Founder of Ajne, the Carmel, Calfornia-based purveyor of precious scents (and the ultimate creator of custom perfumes, in my opinion), for her thought on physical-and-mood-enhancing abilities of scents made with essential oils, I had no idea of the flood gate I was opening. It just so happens that Hendler is not only an expert on the subject but has created an entire collection of truly unique, enthralling scents with just this very chakra-healing premise.

Now, I adore Jane, really I do, and though I knew the potions would smell incredible, I had quite low expectations of their effects. After all, many, many alchemists of essential oil-based fragrances tout the healing benefits their custom blends, and I was never convinced. I’d roll my eyes at the hippie-chicks manning the “natural perfumes” booths at the arts and crafts fairs and figure that they simply weren’t enlightened enough to just prowl through Sephora on a Saturday afternoon and find a real perfume. Surely then they’d have the sense to pour on some Annick Goutal or Comptoir Sud Pacifique instead of the sandalwood oil, right?  Sure, I’d choose the “energizing” blend of oils in a shiatsu massage or the “calming” blend in a Swedish massage, but in the end, doesn’t any massage leave you feeling pretty great, anyway? But now that I’ve drunk the Kool-Aid and started to wear certain healing scents in lieu of my usual perfumes on days where I feel less than balanced, I’m a believer. 

And, now, as I sip my Yogi tea amidst my massive arsenal of frivolous possessions, I will make a deposit into the Bank of Karma and share my knowledge (in the form of my Ajne favorites) with you.

All of the following scents are by Ajne, and are blended from sustainably-harvested ingredients free of synthetics, harmful chemicals and petro-plastic containers. Please visit www.ajne.com for more information or to order.

De Lavande strengthens the entire chakra system, especially the throat, solar plexus and crown charkas with pure lavender oils from Provence, Bulgaria, Tasmania, and Ajne’s own organic farm.

Om promotes a feeling of tranquil bliss and inner security and supports the base, third eye and crown chakras with a blend of sandalwood, ancient heart cedar and incense-like deep forest lichen.

Savoir combines the precious and exotic scent of Australian Boronia, Italian Bergamot and West Indian Champaca for a thoroughly intoxicating scent that strengthens and balances the Ajna, or third eye, chakra as well as supporting the endocrine, upper respiratory and sensory and nervous systems.

Calme is ambery and musky, with subtle notes of Ethiopian Myrrh and Vanilla from Madagascar that beckons you to claim your own inner strength, center yourself, and breathe. Calme strengthens and balances the root, or base, chakra and supports the muscular, nervous and skeletal systems.

Roshambo combines ancient Sandalwood with Italian Bergamot for guidance with life’s tough choices. The ingredients strengthen and balance the sacral chakra and support the body’s fluid balance and reproductive systems.

Lucky blends lime, mandarin, myrrh, sage and French basil for solar plexus chakra balancing and strengthening and support of the lymphatic, digestive and nervous systems.

Citron Régénérez is an invigorating blend of Mediterranean citrus notes and rare spices that strengthens and balances the solar plexus chakra and supports the pancreatic and digestive systems.

 

Makeup With Benefits

Makeup With Benefits

 

 

I’m not sure when it started, but it seems that the sense of entitlement personified by certain undeserving and overindulged reality TV stars has become an epidemic among the rest of us, too. We all want more and more and more. It’s not a noble trait but it does have its virtues when it comes to expecting more from the things that we non-celebutantes throw our hard-earned cash at. Like makeup, for example – our expectations are higher than ever, and beauty companies have really upped their game to stay competitive. A few years ago, multi-tasking products were the buzz, with eye-lip-cheek products like NARS Multiple launching a million imitations. Now that multi-taskers are ubiquitous, we’ve decided that we want our makeup to act like skincare and actually improve our skin rather than just make it look pretty until we wash it off. Who wants to buy a foundation that just covers flaws when the next brand eliminates them entirely, right?

The trend of putting skincare ingredients and benefits into makeup can be found in every price point, including drugstore brands. But, it’s especially evident with the higher-priced brands, which are learning that charging a premium price for exclusivity and ambiguous promises like “radiance” must be amped up with ultra-effective skin clearing or anti-aging or moisturizing ingredients and scientific proof to back up tangible claims. When innovative brands like Tarte and DuWop continually develop new formulations of staple products like foundation, or invent entirely new products (Brand-making best-sellers like DuWop’s Lip Venom and the ingenious Reverse Lip Liner or Tarte’s Vitamin-Infused Lipstick and Lip Gloss are great examples.), the whole industry snaps to attention. And, when companies focus on brainstorming and competing for the next big thing, we all win.

So, the next time you need to replace an old standby, check out one of the juiced-up, more-than-just-color versions of it and see if you notice a difference in your skin. You can find skin boosts in everything from serum-infused lipstick to lid-lifting cream eye shadows, but foundation is the best investment, since it has the greatest ability to affect your skin’s behavior from the inside out.  Following are some of my favorite skin-transforming foundations that live up to their hype.

Clinique Even Better Makeup SPF 15 was designed to work with Clinique’s skin-brightening Even Better Skin Tone Corrector, which is how I’ve been using it. Though my stubborn sunspots are getting lighter, it’s definitely a gradual but a gentle-on-skin alternative to chemical lighteners. Used on its own, the foundation claims to diminish dark spots and deliver more even-toned skin in just 4 to 6 weeks. Gives a natural, dewy finish that covers but looks like real skin. The SPF 15 seems too low to protect from further sun damage, so I layer it over a higher SPF. Oilier skins will likely need to blot shinier areas throughout the day, $24.50; www.clinique.com.

Cover Girl & Olay Simply Ageless Anti-Aging Foundation SPF 22 is that cool swirled-compact that’s in the spotlight thanks to its commercials with Ellen Degeneres, but it’s buzz-worthy on its own merits, too. It gives silky, buildable coverage but may be too moisture-laden for anything but normal-to-dry skin. The downside of any drugstore foundation is the challenge of color-matching, and these colors go on lighter than they appear in the compact, $13.99; Drugstores.

Fresh Umbrian Clay Freshface Foundation SPF 20 is an offshoot of the popular Umbrian Clay skin treatment for facial detoxing. It moisturizes, leaves skin feeling and looking softer and smoother, and makes pores look smaller and de-gunked. It is satiny and ideal for combo or drier skin and not suitable for very sensitive skin, $42; www.sephora.com.

L’Oreal Age Perfect Foundation SPF 12 is a moisture-loaded soufflé for dry skin. Though it’s oil-free, it’s rich enough to use under the eye area without accenting dryness or fine lines, and leaves skin looking very smooth and lifted. Light-reflecting pigments deflect spots and lines while hyraluronic moisturizers leave skin intensely hydrated all day. Comes with a brush for smooth, even coverage, $16.59; www.drugstore.com.

Rimmel Stay Matte Clarifying Matte Foundation doesn’t do the dreaded foundation-slide-off in hot or humid weather. It lives up to its promise of 12-hour shine-free coverage, yet still feels light and clean on the skin rather than “powdery” or coated like some mattes do. It keeps pores clean with salicylic acid, the favored ingredient for blemish-clearing and blackhead-obliterating, but doesn’t dry out the skin, thanks to nourishing botanicals. Great for oily, congested skin, $6.99; Drugstores.

Tarte ReCreate Anti-Aging Foundation With Wrinkle Rewind Technology SPF 15 has a wordy name but it’s not just lip service. It’s a cutting-edge natural (earth-friendly) foundation that ups moisture by over 50% fifteen minutes after application, and brightens skin with micronized minerals. Also impressive are the anti-aging benefits: clinical results showed a significant increase in elasticity and firmness (an average increase of 22% after 2 weeks of use and 43% after 4 weeks of use) and a significant decrease in the appearance of lines and wrinkles (an average of 39% after 4 weeks of use and 67% after 6 weeks of use). Though the long-term effects are notable, I like the instant gratification of the super smooth, natural semi-matte finish, which covers without looking like makeup. Especially great for giving moisture without shine to combo or oilier skin, $37; www.tartecosmetics.com.

Surreal Skin, Without The Spa Trip

Spa-Less Surreal Skin

I’ve never been a real devotee of regular facials, but I’m a huge fan of microdermabrasion and peels and the incredibly luminous, “new” skin that they reveal. So much so that, in an effort to support my habit, I’ve tried just about every at-home alternative that I come across, hoping for the “professional results” that they all promise. Though all of them pretty much accomplish some level of smoothing and a give a temporary glow, they don’t come close to a real spa or dermatologist treatment in their strength or results. But, I’ve found a few that come awfully darn close, and are a great smart and frugal fix when a triple-digit-dollar-amount is not an option. Here are my current faves for DIY smooth, even-toned, radiant skin.

 

Note: This type of treatment is all about deep exfoliation and sensitive skins should proceed with care. Err on the side of caution regarding the product level you use, the amount of time you leave it on, and how often you use it!

 

MD Skincare Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel has gotten raves from beauty editors for years, and with good cause.  It’s fast, idiot-proof, gentle and blends alpha and beta hydroxy acids to clarify and smooth skin. Ideal for normal to drier skins; $78 for 30 applications; www.sephora.com.

 

Natura Bisse Glyco Peeling 50% has been my go-to skin fix for years, but you’ve got to have strong skin and the bank balance to handle it. (The 25% version is good, gentler and cheaper if you’re unsure!) It’s nothing short of miraculous for rendering pores virtually invisible, dissolving blackheads and dry areas, and fading sun damage. Recommended use is twice per week for six weeks, followed by a few months off; $170; www.neimanmarcus.com.

 

Olay Regenerist Microdermabrasion & Peel System uses two-steps to mimic a spa microdermabrasion session and peel, but is gentle enough to use twice a week. As the name implies, it regenerates the skin by encouraging cell renewal, resurfacing skin texture, and diminishing the look of dark spots, lines and wrinkles. The truly amazing part is that provides eight weeks of treatments for about one-fifth of the price a single spa microdermabrasion session; $26.99; Drugstores.

 

 

 

REN Glycolactic Skin Renewal Peel Mask uses potent fruit acids like pineapple, passionfruit, grape and lemon to exfoliate and glow up your skin. Not for sensitive skins, but great for oily, congested or dull skins; $55; www.bluemercury.com.

 

Renée Rouleau Triple Berry Smoothing Peel not only smells fantastic (Resist the urge to eat it!) but gives visible, cumulative results after every use. Using the power of antioxidant-rich berry extracts of pomegranates and blueberries plus raspberry seed oil, salicylic acid (for purifying pores), lactic acid (for smoothing and brightening), and other natural skin resurfacing ingredients. The intensive peel only needs to be used one to three times per month to breathe life into dull, lackluster or toxin-loaded skin of all types; $85; www.ReneeRouleau.com.

Musk Scents

  Musk Scents, Revisited

 

Remember musk? If you remember the Seventies and Eighties (yes, I’m dating myself here), then you remember musk scents. If you don’t remember these decades, I’m guessing you teened it through the Backstreet Boys instead of Duran, Duran, right? Anyway, for me, junior high and high school perfumes, and the girls who wore them, fell into two categories: Bonne Bell Skin Musk and Love’s Baby Soft. Personally, although I could hardly pass for the earthy type, (Shocking, I know), I was a Musk. I never got the whole Baby Soft thing – maybe because it smelled neither baby-like nor soft. Quite the opposite – it was so cloying that it gave me my first of many fragrance-induced migraines. Ugh. Plus, weren’t we all trying to look older in our clogs and feathered hair and Lip Smackers, anyway? Who wanted to look juvenile, pink and babyish? As if. Not Sadie Hawkins dance worthy in the least.

 

So, for years, I made musk my signature, eventually moving on from Ms. Bell to the sluttier Jovan Wild Musk Oil and then the hippie-chic Kiehls Original Musk Oil. Then, inexplicably, I turned my back on musk completely. Maybe I was brainwashed by the ultra-extroverted Giorgio Beverly Hills or the swishy L’Air du Temps or the polarizing Dior Poison (sinus-infection-in-a-bottle) or the preppy-posh Lauren by Ralph Lauren or any of the other blockbuster scents of the mid-80’s. (I secretly bought a bottle of the extremely inappropriate Calvin Klein Obsession when it first came out but never dared to wear it beyond my shag-carpeted bedroom.)

 

Anyway, my point -- and I do have one -- is that I forgot what an all-out sensory perfection a great musk fragrance can be. I wrote musk off as pedestrian, often heavy-handed, an overtly-animalistic fragrance note that screamed amateur alchemy to me. That is, until I received a tiny sample bottle of Serge Lutens Clair de Musc at a Neiman Marcus beauty event. Though I’m a fan of many a Lutens scent, I tossed this one in a drawer for awhile, figuring it would just be a utilitarian musk with a seriously inflated price tag. I certainly didn’t mean to fall in love with it, it just happened one day when I hurriedly reached for it, mistaking it for a sample bottle of Lutens Datura Noir, which I adore. (Don’t even get me started on that one.)  I rubbed it on my wrists and then it hit me. Oh, Clair de Musc, you are but a devious little minx, masquerading as a plain Jane Musk when you’re actually a quite remarkable Musc. There is nothing dirty or earthy about this musk at all, in fact, it’s luminous, delicate, a veil of scent where other musks are a blanket. The lightest, most subtle touches of neroli, iris and bergamot give it a transparent and fresh quality, making it a sublime scent even for non-musk fans. Now, mind you, I needed to fall in love with yet another $120 bottle of perfume like I need to eat Nutella straight out of the jar. Both equally sublime yet self-destructive passions. And yet, there sits, on my vanity, a sleek full-size bottle of Clair de Musc. I have no willpower.

 

And so a new obsession begins…I must track down rare left-over bottles of Bonne Bell Skin Musk on Ebay and random perfume websites…I must deliberate the strengths of the many new incarnations of musk that are everywhere right now – the “white musks” versus “sheer musks” and “crystal musks.” I must sample them all. And, since I love lists, I must compile a list of the best of this new breed of musk:

 

Fab Five Musks

 

Comptoir Sud Pacifique Cristal de Musc, $85; www.beauty.com.  Luscious orange blossom and hibiscus ripens a base of white musk and musk, for a slightly sweet, summery scent.

 

Jo Malone Wild Fig & Cassis Cologne, from $55; www.jomalone.com. Juicy figs mingled with a whiff of cassis on a cedarwood and musk base.

 

Keiko Mecheri Musk, $115; www.luckyscent.com. Another investment piece for sure, innocent yet decadent at the same time, a true skin scent that never overwhelms.

 

Narciso Rodriguez for Her, from $65; www.sephora.com. Now I know why it’s a best-seller. It’s a sexy day-to-night musk with a dose of honey flower and orange blossom for a velvety finish.

 

Serge Lutens Clair de Musc, $120; www.neimanmarcus.com. You’ve been duly warned of its divinity.

 

 

Between The Lines -- Wrinkle Defense

Between The Lines

 

 

Happily, I have a face that defies my age. On a good day, I can pass for many years younger than my real age, and on a bad day I can at least pass for an exhausted and stressed out twenty-something. (And being a worn out twenty-something beats a rested thirty-something any day of the week.) It’s a mystery why I am not coated in a web of wrinkles, after all, I spent the majority of my teenage and early adult years tanning in a self-made marinade of iodine and baby oil (Don’t judge me.), possessed my very own “sun lamp” (which is a euphemism for giant skin-scorching bulb of questionable safety standards) and even – I’m ashamed to say this now – held unlimited monthly passes at many a tanning salon.

 

But even though my cheeks, forehead and chin are still smooth, I apparently can’t go lineless forever around my eyes and mouth – the very expressions that make life fun eventually take their toll. Over time, tiny crinkles have popped up around my eyes and I’m getting those “marionette” smile lines around my mouth. Though I’m personally against using any substance that freezes your ability to crinkle up and renders you expressionless, (starts with a “B” and ends with an “ox”), there are so many advances in skin care that can halt your character-building crinkles before they turn into rampant creases.  I learned long ago that wrinkle diminishing is that a side effect of the Retinol that is my go-to at the first sign of any hormonal breakouts, and I still believe that it’s the gold standard ingredient in any skin treatment for wrinkles. However, there are times when it’s not appropriate to use, like when your skin is super-sensitive, or during pregnancy, or when you know you will be in the sun for extended periods of time. (Even with strong sunblock, retinol makes your skin particularly susceptible to burning.) So, I’m on the search for the best non-retinoid wrinkle treatments for those of us in danger of getting carded when we order our next Wasabi Pear Martini.

 

For Everyday

Sensitive skins should start and finish every day with good old derm-approved Cetaphil ($6.99 at drugstores) but all other skins can rev up the cleansing with Peter Thomas Roth AntiAging Cleansing Gel, $35, and Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Peel Pads, $45, a line and wrinkle releasing, all-around glowifying treatment that rivals gentle spa peels; at www.sephora.com.

 

Moisturize, protect and pare down lines and wrinkles with the dynamic duo of Murad’s Intensive Wrinkle Reducer, $150, and Intensive Wrinkle Reducer for Eyes, $90, both of which turn back time by dramatically firming skin and lessening the look of lines without irritation, and feel refreshingly lightweight and breathable, unlike many other wrinkle creams.

 

 

 

Special Treatment

When feeling extra haggard, or when you need a fast skin boost before a big event, amp up your usual routine with an intensive mask, like Laboratoire Remède Alchemy Line Minimizing Masque ($68, www.bluemercury.com), which raises collagen and elastin production, softens the look of fine lines, super-hydrates, and generally lessens the visible toll of smog, sun, stress and sleep-deprivation. An ultra-luxe and ultra-effective treatment for eyes, RéVive Masque des Yeux ($185, www.neimanmarcus.com) is an investment for sure, but the results are extraordinary for tired eyes. It’s packed with Hyaluronic Filling Spheres, which is a fancy name for magical-line-plumping-eye-depuffery powers. Apply it to your under eye area before bed and wake to amazingly smooth, firm, vacation eyes even on a workday.

 

Last but not least, the best wrinkle prevention is the everyday-without-fail use of a broad-spectrum, UVA/UVB sunblock on your face. No excuses.

 

 

 

 

Haute Oils for Hair

In Treatment: Haute Oils for Hair

 

I’m embarrassed over the number of oil treatments, hot or otherwise, that currently reside under my bathroom sink. Embarrassed over the half-used bottles and tubes of prized hair elixirs, each promising instant glossy goddess-y goodness for an unspeakable sum of money. And yet, after all of these product investments, I am mostly embarrassed that I still have dry-as-a-bone hair.  I think back to my high school days when I had supremely glossy, smooth, and dare I say it – perfectly happy --  hair with the help of nothing more intense than the occasional VO5 Hot Oil Treatment. Maybe it’s age or hormones, maybe it’s stress, maybe it’s the Southern California heat, maybe it’s my obsession with hair color. Whatever the cause, I’m determined to find that happy hair place again, with yet another obsessive cosmetic journey. Here’s what I’ve learned thus far:

 

Stating The Obvious, It’s All About Moisture Content.

From a simple yet scientific standpoint (Well, at least the most scientific standpoint you’ll get with my name attached to it), all hair needs moisture to thrive, and the sufficient amount will allow the hair cuticles to happily lounge straight and smooth, resulting in hair that’s strong and shiny. Everyone needs a certain amount of moisture maintenance, but some more than others, especially if you live in a hot or dry climate, chemically-abuse your hair, or use heat stylers like infinite-wattage blow dryers and scorching hot irons, factors which are serious dehydrators. Dehydrated hair feels course and brittle and looks dull and lifeless, because a rough, “unhappy” cuticle absorbs light rather than reflecting it, robbing it of its natural shine. When your hair’s moisture content is very low, split ends occur, and if they are not immediately sealed or trimmed off, breakage occurs. Adding moisturizers in the forms of shampoos, conditioners, styling products (alcohol-free), oil treatments and even ionic tools really makes a difference.

 

Product Buildup Is The Enemy.

A common source of dryness is product buildup, which, ironically, is caused by the very intensive conditioners that you rely on to quench your hair’s thirst. Once your hair is coated with a wall of excessive product build-up, the moisture that you’re seeking won’t be able to penetrate it. Your hair gets dryer, so you use more and more hydrating and conditioning treatments, only to end up more parched every time. Fans of smoothing silicone products often end up with the driest hair, creating a vicious, product-overloaded cycle. A good clarifying treatment, like Frederic Fekkai Apple Cider Clarifying Shampoo ($23; www.sephora.com), is the best way to give your hair a “clean slate” and prepare it for hydration.

 

Price Aside, Some Oils Are Better Than Others.

Though some oil treatments, specifically essential oils and avocado, coconut and olive oils, are of small enough molecular structure to penetrate the hair shaft and infuse it with moisture, be aware that some types of oils and homemade treatments (I’m looking at you, mineral oil and mayonnaise!) do not have this ability and will, instead, simply coat the cuticle, causing a temporary shine and smoothness that you may mistake for hair repair but is actually just product build up. Think of it as buffing oil into your hardwood floor versus laying wax on top of it. A blend of quality essential oils will soak into your strands, leaving them stronger and more elastic, frizz-free, and brilliantly shiny.

 

What to Look For: Key Ingredients

 

Antioxidant Oils, such as the potent gooseberry oil in Neil George Indian Gooseberry Treatment Oil ($42; www.beauty.com), which has become my hourly addiction, and traditional Japanese camellia oil, as in Chidorya 100% Pure Camellia Oil ($32; www.beautyhabit.com), use their healing powers to turn straw into silk, with quick absorption that leaves hair with a frizz-free, healthy gleam.

 

Argan Oil, the much buzzed-about “liquid gold” that’s launching a million incarnations, is proven to penetrate the hair shaft, providing strength, nourishment and great gloss to dry, damaged hair. It’s lauded for providing weightless shine and silkiness without residue, unlike its heavy, silicone-based counterparts. Translation: instant absorption means your hair won’t look like an icky oil slick. Look for this exotic oil in the cultish MorroccanOil ($39; www.amazon.com),and the ultra-effective, vegan-luxe Jonathan Product IB Revitalizer Overnight Oil Treatment Spray ($44; www.beauty.com) -- the morning results of this spray are worth the un-sexy greaseball bedtime look.

 

Castor Oil, which is a long-revered remedy for thinning hair, is said to stimulate and revitalize the roots and follicles, encouraging the growth of thicker and stronger hair. Though I have yet to be convinced that it lives up to its hype as a hair-loss antidote, it’s instant injection of strength-and-shimmer to overprocessed strands is noteworthy. Though straight castor oil or traditional formulations may cause an oily scalp or a “coated” feeling, newer formulations that blend this oil with other ingredients are less occlusive. My current favorite is PhytoNectar Ultra Nourishing Oil Treatment, Ultra-Dry Hair ($30; www.sephora.com). Though the result only seems to last until my next shampoo, even when it’s deathly dehydrated, it feels quenched after an application of this “nectar.”

 

Essential Oils, such as lavender, peppermint, myrrh and rosemary, are ideal spa stand-ins, thanks to their intoxicating aromas and mood-enhancing properties. But, there’s more to it than that – they deeply penetrate the hair shaft for true (not temporary) transformation and specific blends of oils can closely match the scalp’s natural sebum or hair’s natural lipids to restore optimum moisture balance. D-I-Y’ers love that these oils are excellent for mixing up your own concoctions – try adding one ounce of rosemary oil to one ounce of peppermint oil and find scalp nirvana! Product picks include the intensively healing Philip B Rejuvenating Oil ($30; www.bluemercury.com), and the revitalizing Weleda Rosemary Hair Oil ($10; www.drugstore.com), which I’ve been known to use for its mental-clarification powers alone.