Haute Oils for Hair

In Treatment: Haute Oils for Hair

 

I’m embarrassed over the number of oil treatments, hot or otherwise, that currently reside under my bathroom sink. Embarrassed over the half-used bottles and tubes of prized hair elixirs, each promising instant glossy goddess-y goodness for an unspeakable sum of money. And yet, after all of these product investments, I am mostly embarrassed that I still have dry-as-a-bone hair.  I think back to my high school days when I had supremely glossy, smooth, and dare I say it – perfectly happy --  hair with the help of nothing more intense than the occasional VO5 Hot Oil Treatment. Maybe it’s age or hormones, maybe it’s stress, maybe it’s the Southern California heat, maybe it’s my obsession with hair color. Whatever the cause, I’m determined to find that happy hair place again, with yet another obsessive cosmetic journey. Here’s what I’ve learned thus far:

 

Stating The Obvious, It’s All About Moisture Content.

From a simple yet scientific standpoint (Well, at least the most scientific standpoint you’ll get with my name attached to it), all hair needs moisture to thrive, and the sufficient amount will allow the hair cuticles to happily lounge straight and smooth, resulting in hair that’s strong and shiny. Everyone needs a certain amount of moisture maintenance, but some more than others, especially if you live in a hot or dry climate, chemically-abuse your hair, or use heat stylers like infinite-wattage blow dryers and scorching hot irons, factors which are serious dehydrators. Dehydrated hair feels course and brittle and looks dull and lifeless, because a rough, “unhappy” cuticle absorbs light rather than reflecting it, robbing it of its natural shine. When your hair’s moisture content is very low, split ends occur, and if they are not immediately sealed or trimmed off, breakage occurs. Adding moisturizers in the forms of shampoos, conditioners, styling products (alcohol-free), oil treatments and even ionic tools really makes a difference.

 

Product Buildup Is The Enemy.

A common source of dryness is product buildup, which, ironically, is caused by the very intensive conditioners that you rely on to quench your hair’s thirst. Once your hair is coated with a wall of excessive product build-up, the moisture that you’re seeking won’t be able to penetrate it. Your hair gets dryer, so you use more and more hydrating and conditioning treatments, only to end up more parched every time. Fans of smoothing silicone products often end up with the driest hair, creating a vicious, product-overloaded cycle. A good clarifying treatment, like Frederic Fekkai Apple Cider Clarifying Shampoo ($23; www.sephora.com), is the best way to give your hair a “clean slate” and prepare it for hydration.

 

Price Aside, Some Oils Are Better Than Others.

Though some oil treatments, specifically essential oils and avocado, coconut and olive oils, are of small enough molecular structure to penetrate the hair shaft and infuse it with moisture, be aware that some types of oils and homemade treatments (I’m looking at you, mineral oil and mayonnaise!) do not have this ability and will, instead, simply coat the cuticle, causing a temporary shine and smoothness that you may mistake for hair repair but is actually just product build up. Think of it as buffing oil into your hardwood floor versus laying wax on top of it. A blend of quality essential oils will soak into your strands, leaving them stronger and more elastic, frizz-free, and brilliantly shiny.

 

What to Look For: Key Ingredients

 

Antioxidant Oils, such as the potent gooseberry oil in Neil George Indian Gooseberry Treatment Oil ($42; www.beauty.com), which has become my hourly addiction, and traditional Japanese camellia oil, as in Chidorya 100% Pure Camellia Oil ($32; www.beautyhabit.com), use their healing powers to turn straw into silk, with quick absorption that leaves hair with a frizz-free, healthy gleam.

 

Argan Oil, the much buzzed-about “liquid gold” that’s launching a million incarnations, is proven to penetrate the hair shaft, providing strength, nourishment and great gloss to dry, damaged hair. It’s lauded for providing weightless shine and silkiness without residue, unlike its heavy, silicone-based counterparts. Translation: instant absorption means your hair won’t look like an icky oil slick. Look for this exotic oil in the cultish MorroccanOil ($39; www.amazon.com),and the ultra-effective, vegan-luxe Jonathan Product IB Revitalizer Overnight Oil Treatment Spray ($44; www.beauty.com) -- the morning results of this spray are worth the un-sexy greaseball bedtime look.

 

Castor Oil, which is a long-revered remedy for thinning hair, is said to stimulate and revitalize the roots and follicles, encouraging the growth of thicker and stronger hair. Though I have yet to be convinced that it lives up to its hype as a hair-loss antidote, it’s instant injection of strength-and-shimmer to overprocessed strands is noteworthy. Though straight castor oil or traditional formulations may cause an oily scalp or a “coated” feeling, newer formulations that blend this oil with other ingredients are less occlusive. My current favorite is PhytoNectar Ultra Nourishing Oil Treatment, Ultra-Dry Hair ($30; www.sephora.com). Though the result only seems to last until my next shampoo, even when it’s deathly dehydrated, it feels quenched after an application of this “nectar.”

 

Essential Oils, such as lavender, peppermint, myrrh and rosemary, are ideal spa stand-ins, thanks to their intoxicating aromas and mood-enhancing properties. But, there’s more to it than that – they deeply penetrate the hair shaft for true (not temporary) transformation and specific blends of oils can closely match the scalp’s natural sebum or hair’s natural lipids to restore optimum moisture balance. D-I-Y’ers love that these oils are excellent for mixing up your own concoctions – try adding one ounce of rosemary oil to one ounce of peppermint oil and find scalp nirvana! Product picks include the intensively healing Philip B Rejuvenating Oil ($30; www.bluemercury.com), and the revitalizing Weleda Rosemary Hair Oil ($10; www.drugstore.com), which I’ve been known to use for its mental-clarification powers alone.